A discreet address, a pretty decor in the parquet-floored dining room, a certain distinction to taste a fusion cuisine that expresses itself in the hidden menu imposed at €70 by Hugues Mbenda. The chef, whom we've been following and accompanying since his beginnings in Marseille, has come a long way since his Congolese childhood ("Kin" for Kinshasa), via London and Paris (Apicius, Taillevent, Violon d'Ingres), and seems to have found his cruising speed. Refinement and fine flavors now merit a second toque for an experience that's sure to be interesting, served with care, and enriched by an already well-stocked cellar.