It's a new adventure for Alexandre and Malvina Vossaert, who are taking over the former Grignotière, a Valenciennes institution that has worn its chef's hats for ages. The couple are breaking new ground by changing the name of their restaurant, and offering a slightly less gastro cuisine, but one that's solid, attractively priced and nourished by well-chosen local produce. Traditional starters such as mackerel with apples in oil or fried soft-boiled egg with truffle are followed by a variety of dishes including sea bass, beef, lamb (7-hour confit of Paimpol cocos, ratte du Touquet) or squab (two-cooked, parmentier of thigh with celery, roast breast with green cabbage and bacon) prepared with mastery and tradition. Well-stocked cellar, attentive service.