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37-39 rue Boissière
75016 Paris
France

Phone : 01 41 40 99 80

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Pierre Gagnaire

75008 PARIS
8 PHOTOS
Chef Pierre Gagnaire
Cooking Cuisine d'auteur | French | Gastronomic
Services Access disabled | Privatization | Valet parking
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
180 € to 420 €
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Gault&Millau's review
Gault&Millau Academy's member Setting off into the depths of the sea with Pierre Gagnaire is like diving into Captain Nemo's Nautilus. He's the only one who really knows where you're going, and every step is a discovery. Pierre Gagnaire's paintings are richer in detail than those of Hieronymus Bosch; the scenes are diverse, unexpected and linked by a spider's web into a harmonious whole that begins with the pocket cocktail, a sumptuous Gagnairian version of the varied hors d'oeuvres, each mouthful of which is at once unfamiliar and seductive. In Pierre Gagnaire's "Jardin Marin", we encountered crab, lobster and turnip kabu; cold-poached cockles with green grape verjuice, coriander and leek; marine soup with leaves and Boutrais oysters; shrimp and wild seaweed with spider crab cream: venerated black rice and sea anemone, piquillos and padron with kalamansi vinegar pistes and casserons; haddock plankton butter bean green bean varnish: creamy brandade with cava, kokotxas (cheeks) and cod tripe. These six plates make up the garden, each with its own secrets, treasures and evocative power. If you didn't know, this is who Pierre Gagnaire is: a generous alchemist whose universe is rich, poetic and endless. We can write the next book on Limousin veal, also in six epochs, including ajowan rib deglazed with absinthe, white kidneys and amourettes, grilled leather and zucchini with stichelton like so many inventions from another planet. But it's also worth mentioning the desserts, such as the limpid and moving mirabelle licorice, or the chocolate quetsche reine-claude, which is also so deliciously obvious. The atmosphere of a grand house and the service orchestrated by the invaluable Hervé Parmentier are also accompanied by total freedom, a precious commodity these days: you can consult the menu at your leisure, and even eat in the order you like without offending anyone. There are no sentences here that start with "the chef recommends...". In many ways, the customer is king in a totally epicurean kingdom. The rather classic wine list aims to please rather than dazzle: you'll find everything you'd expect from a great house, skilfully advised by head sommelier Patrick Borras, but there's also a large number of interesting bottles from both small and large regions, a foreign selection and a choice of around 15 wines by the glass that don't exceed €25.
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Address 6 Rue Balzac
75008 Paris
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Monday Lunch Dinner
Tuesday Lunch Dinner
Wednesday Lunch Dinner
Thursday Lunch Dinner
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Sunday Lunch Dinner
People
Pierre Gagnaire
Pierre Gagnaire Chef
Pierre Gagnaire Pierre Gagnaire Chef
Thierry Méchinaud
Thierry Méchinaud Chef
Thierry Méchinaud Thierry Méchinaud Chef
Julien Gueze
Julien Gueze Pastry Chef
Julien Gueze Julien Gueze Pastry Chef
Hervé Parmentier
Hervé Parmentier Chef de service
Hervé Parmentier Hervé Parmentier Chef de service
Patrick Borras
Patrick Borras Head sommelier
Patrick Borras Patrick Borras Head sommelier
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