Pierre Gagnaire

75008 PARIS

Gault&Millau Academy's member

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8 PHOTOS

Chef Pierre Gagnaire

Cooking Cuisine d'auteur | French | Gastronomic

Services Disabled access | Privatization | Valet parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

180€ à 420€

Gault&Millau's review

Gault&Millau Academy's member Setting off into the depths of the sea with Pierre Gagnaire is like diving into Captain Nemo's Nautilus. He's the only one who really knows where you're going, and every step is a discovery. Pierre Gagnaire's paintings are richer in detail than those of Hieronymus Bosch; the scenes are diverse, unexpected and linked by a spider's web into a harmonious whole that begins with the pocket cocktail, a sumptuous Gagnairian version of the varied hors d'oeuvres, each mouthful of which is at once unfamiliar and seductive. In Pierre Gagnaire's "Jardin Marin", we encountered crab, lobster and turnip kabu; cold-poached cockles with green grape verjuice, coriander and leek; marine soup with leaves and Boutrais oysters; shrimp and wild seaweed with spider crab cream: venerated black rice and sea anemone, piquillos and padron with kalamansi vinegar pistes and casserons; haddock plankton butter bean green bean varnish: creamy brandade with cava, kokotxas (cheeks) and cod tripe. These six plates make up the garden, each with its own secrets, treasures and evocative power. If you didn't know, this is who Pierre Gagnaire is: a generous alchemist whose universe is rich, poetic and endless. We can write the next book on Limousin veal, also in six epochs, including ajowan rib deglazed with absinthe, white kidneys and amourettes, grilled leather and zucchini with stichelton like so many inventions from another planet. But it's also worth mentioning the desserts, such as the limpid and moving mirabelle licorice, or the chocolate quetsche reine-claude, which is also so deliciously obvious. The atmosphere of a grand house and the service orchestrated by the invaluable Hervé Parmentier are also accompanied by total freedom, a precious commodity these days: you can consult the menu at your leisure, and even eat in the order you like without offending anyone. There are no sentences here that start with "the chef recommends...". In many ways, the customer is king in a totally epicurean kingdom. The rather classic wine list aims to please rather than dazzle: you'll find everything you'd expect from a great house, skilfully advised by head sommelier Patrick Borras, but there's also a large number of interesting bottles from both small and large regions, a foreign selection and a choice of around 15 wines by the glass that don't exceed €25.

Plan

Address 6 Rue Balzac
75008 Paris

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Opening

Opened today

Monday Lunch Dinner

Tuesday Lunch Dinner

Wednesday Lunch Dinner

Thursday Lunch Dinner

Friday Lunch Dinner

Saturday Lunch Dinner

Sunday Lunch Dinner

People

Pierre Gagnaire Chef

Thierry Méchinaud Chef

Julien Gueze Pastry Chef

Hervé Parmentier Chef de service

Patrick Borras Head sommelier

Menu A la carte

Starter Cocotte de flouve odorante et thym citron dans laquelle on fume quelques instants un céleri-rave du jardin de Monsieur Roy — morilles fraîches à la livèche, poireaux crayons. Damier de thon rouge de Méditerranée I eau de riz à l’eau-de-vie de prune ; brocciu corse à l’huile d’olive Marquiliani. Cannelloni transparent d’asperges vertes truffé, infusion d’asperge blanche. Artichaut poivrade aux petits pois, voile de lard de Bigorre ; velouté Vert. Sirop d’oignon rouge : oignons de Roscoff, oignons fanes, daïkon multicolore. Soufflé au persil simple ; tomme de brebis, shiso vert. €183 Grosses gambas de Palamos macérées à l’amontillado, Liebig de piquillos safrané ; navet kabu, padrón. Vernis, crevettes grises et couteaux, glace au plancton ; consommé d’algues sauvages des côtes du Croisic. Coques et huître de Pen Bron au Verjus de raisin vert, lait ribot. Riz noir vénéré aux anémones de mer relevé de vinaigre de calamansi ; pistes, casserons, kokotxas et tripes de morue. Bisque d’oursin, gâteau de poireaux. Toast de moelle au raifort. Brandade de morue et tapioca. €187

Main course Darne de turbot de ligne saisie doucement au beurre Froment-du-Léon, terminée en cocotte avec des praires au Chignin-bergeron — spaghetti de mer, fenouil de pleine terre, brocolito. Brioche Noire imbibée du jus de cuisson ; Paris boutons, les bardes. Velouté de trévise à l’huile de colza grillé, carottes multicolores, sarrasin soufflé. €221 Côte de veau fermier parfumée à l’ajowan — elle est rôtie à la casserole, déglacée à l’absinthe ; feuille de laitue, champignons sauvages. Rognon blanc et amourette, échalote entière, achillée. Noix de ris dorée, liqueur de noix aux poires. Cuir grillé Dundee Picky, pourpier. Moussette aux câpres La Nicchia, jus d’olive noire de Nyons. €188

Dessert Biscuit soufflé Cuba, feuille de chocolat Caramelia. Crème glacée Guanaja. Ganache Manjari. Eau Pampelune, granité à l’Armagnac 1995 du domaine Marquestau. Calisson, orange sanguine. Parfait glacé Chanchamayo, réduction de Rancio. €53 Miel de Manuka, citron bignette, cheveux d’ange. Tulipe de poire comice, quartier poché I caramélisé, glace au miel de litchi ; pollen et honeycomb. Sirop de miel de tilleul, granité mimosa, pâte de citron meyer. Sabayon, bavaroise, praliné tournesol au miel leatherwood. Orange sanguine au miel d’arbousier, cristal de vent au safran ; chantilly coquelicot. Cassate chocolat blanc au miel de bourdaine, sablé de gland de chêne ; gelée chaude de pomme. €65

Menus Menu Déjeuner €180 Menu Esprit Pierre Gagnaire €420