Alléno Paris – Pavillon Ledoyen

Rating: 19
Author: Gault&Millau

75008 PARIS

19/20
Exceptional Restaurant

BOOK

13 PHOTOS

Chef: Yannick Alléno
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine
Services: Click&Collect | Delivery Service | Private Parking | Takeaway | Valet parking
Style: Elegant | Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

295 to 415

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Elegance, abundance, privilege, or when the smallest detail becomes the most important. You have to be Yannick Alléno to have such an acute vision of fine dining, to be both an artist and a manager. It takes someone who has worked in some of the world's most prestigious venues, who has rubbed shoulders with some of the finest names in the business, and above all, who has thought long and hard about his profession and how it is evolving, and about the new expectations of traveling customers, to respond with such a sense of timing. When he personalizes the experience with his "table concierge" service, each guest receives his or her program for the evening on arrival, decided and tuned in advance with all the resources of the house, he revolutionizes the genre. And all in the name of supreme elegance. Here, there's no fake butter, no childish gripes, no gimmicks, just the best people at every job, chosen like a dream team. The welcome of Fanny Perrot and her supervision throughout the meal, the work of the sommeliers and maîtres d'hôtels in all their thoughtfulness and, of course, the total mastery of Gérard Barbin, executor of the very high works hand in hand with Yannick Alléno, to unfold the sequence you have chosen and are sure to delight. From the fine datterino tomato jelly with sprouted seeds, a model of delicacy and freshness, to the extraordinary cryoconcentrated sugar-free candied fruit served as a mignardise, there will be this succession of bewitching and memorable moments, a jeweller's work on the green rice "gmochi", peas dressed one by one in this rice paste for mochi, coulis and sweet onion cream, the charming cassolette of chanterelles in yellow wine on a cloud of almond and green tarragon, enhanced by the texture of a few crunchy almond slivers, the cute hat of cockles opened over a wood fire on white sea bass and a herb jus offering freshness and delicacy. And then, a true work of art, presented by chef Barbin, the noble parts of the lamb, shoulder, rib, saddle in an ensemble that subdues and crisps, a meat of absolute tenderness thanks to a first gentle steaming of the lamb jus, the turnip confit with juices and lemon with salt, in wonderfully dosed perfumes of ras el hanout saffron, cumin... which of course reminded us of the very fine years of Yannick Alléno at the Royal Mansour in Marrakech. Champion desserts, with the blanc manger almond and strawberry giboulée, tender, warm and flavorful, boosted by a drop of chartreuse, and the sugar-free meringue, with cocoa bean bark, fine and heady under a lightly vinegary veil. A wealthy cellar, of course, which has the advantage of offering good value at all prices, not overdoing the m'as-tu-vu or overpricing, offering great seigneurs just about everywhere (relatively few Bordeaux, in proportion), and a good foreign selection.