These 5 dishes that Olivier Nasti can no longer remove from his menu
Chef at Le Chambard in Kaysersberg, Olivier Nasti defends a cuisine that is deeply rooted in its region, committed, clear and sincere. Through five emblematic dishes, he tells the story of a career built on convictions, embraced traditions and mastered modernity.
For a long time, Olivier Nasti (5 toques) was wary of the idea of signature dishes. "When I was younger, I used to say to myself that I wouldn't like to have signature dishes; it's a bit like an old chef who keeps dishes that have worked," he says with amusement. Over time, however, certain dishes have established themselves, becoming real markers in customers' tastes. "We can't take them off the menu. A lot of our regulars come back for that too. In a menu, they like to find these reference points, between two dishes that are more likely to surprise them", emphasizes the Chef of the Year 2023. These five dishes, all of which have been on the menu for a long time, tell the story of a cuisine that is committed to, and coherent with, man and his environment.
Pearly Arctic char with beeswax: the coherence of an ecosystem
Working with lake fish was an obvious choice. Arctic char, a cold-water fish, finds here a setting that is both technical and deeply local. The idea of beeswax came from a very concrete question. "I have beehives, and we wondered what to do with the honey," Olivier Nasti sums up simply. Gradually, sugar disappeared from the chef's kitchen, replaced by honey. Then came wax, first tested as a preservative, before becoming a cooking method in its own right in the early 2010s. "Anchored in the Vosges mountains, the dish is accompanied by fir buds and vinegar, with a little fir honey mixed in with the wax. Timeless, served all year round, this dish is a fine, precise bite.
Eel fillet "au vert": a modern take on tradition
Located near the Rhine, Le Chambard is proud of its link with freshwater fish. The eel served at La Table d'Olivier Nastiis inspired by a Northern European tradition: eel "au vert", poached in an herb soup of leeks, parsley and tarragon. But, as is often the case with Olivier Nasti, the recipe has evolved. "When you propose a traditional dish like this, you always have to try to add a modern touch and make it your own," explains the chef. As the recipe evolved, the soup became a coulis, then a fine purée. The eel is filleted, partially boned for more comfortable eating. For a modern touch, Olivier Nasti decided to lightly smoke the eel, inspired by a trip to Japan.my travels have a major influence on my cuisine," he says, "a dish that combines tradition, technique and openness.
L'Insolite, Alsatian king of the forest tartare: a love of the hunt
The house's oldest dish, L'Insolite embodies the chef's love of game. A hunter himself, Olivier Nasti works in lands where hunting traditions are deeply rooted. The choice of summer stag is not insignificant. "In summer, the animal feeds on fresh grasses, shoots and flowers. Like a cow in the pasture, the meat changes. It's more tender, less gamey, more delicate", stresses the chef. The meat is matured, then seasoned with an Osciètre caviar for saltiness, topped off with an ice cube for crunch. "It's a very popular dish," enthuses the 2023 Chef of the Year. A refined reading of the wild, all in restraint.
Parole de biche": the modernized abat
This more recent dish has become emblematic of Olivier Nasti's cuisine. It highlights a rare offal: the doe's tongue. "When there's no trophy (a part of the harvested animal that the hunter keeps as a souvenir - often antlers or horns), the head is often discarded. Nobody values the tongue or the cheeks," laments the chef. In order to offer them on a regular basis, Olivier Nasti has built up a veritable informal network, mobilizing hunters, friends and forest rangers, to recover the heads that would otherwise end up in the garbage can.
Here, the tongue is worked in thin sheets, accompanied by a milky mustard vinaigrette, and treated with delicacy. "I don't like it when everything is too powerful. Our palates have changed", he observes. The rarity of the product makes the plate an exception, always offered without constraint to the customer. "Sometimes customers are a little put off. So we offer them a taste, and if they don't like it, we change the plate with no problem."
The Chimera
This spectacular dish was born of a constraint as much as a brilliant idea. Pigeon, quail, duck, guinea fowl - exceptional poultry from the Maison Miéral in particular - are boned and then sewn back together. "When you have game birds, you can't always put everything on the menu. The chimera allows usto sublimate each piece, while creating a unique blend of textures and flavors.
Served all year round, this dish appeals to lovers of wild cuisine and great epicureans. "It's extremely technical to achieve even cooking," points out the chef. It's an obvious dish, in the image of Olivier Nasti: bold, precise, deeply thoughtful.
