Contact

37-39 rue Boissière
75016 Paris
France

Phone : 01 41 40 99 80

GaultMillau © 2025 All rights reserved

Soon you may no longer be eating this shellfish in restaurants.

Soon you may no longer be eating this shellfish in restaurants.

A small shellfish much loved by gourmets is under threat, and is even beginning to disappear from some restaurant menus that once made it their specialty. Here's why.

Mathilde Bourge

If you're planning to spend the end of summer in Italy, or more precisely in the Venice region, you may be disappointed to miss out on one of the local specialties.be disappointed to miss out on one of the local specialties based on small shellfish. As you may have guessed, it's "spaghetti alle vongole", a typical recipe made with pasta and clams. Venice restaurants have been forced to remove this delicacy from their menus, and for a disturbing reason.

Crab in pasta instead of clams

While many tourists flock to Italy for its scenic beauty, its gastronomy is not to be outdone. But this summer, the spaghetti alle vongole is missing in action. The culprit? The blue crab, which has come from America to settle in the Mediterranean. In the Po delta, they devour clams, leaving fishermen with nothing but empty shells. "I don't know what's going to happen in the future. Over the last few months, things have gotten out of hand. The lagoon is becoming a desert", worries clam farmer Gianluca Travaglia to France Info, especially as the blue crab has no predator.

To counter this phenomenon, fishermen are being encouraged by the government to catch more blue crabs, renowned for their delicious meat. Some Italian chefs have even started using blue crabs in their dishes to replace clams. The crustacean could also be exported to the United States, its country of origin, where it is much appreciated by consumers.

Matthias Marc leaves Substance: a new start for the chef from the Franche-Comté region
News & Events
Matthias Marc leaves Substance: a new start for the chef from the Franche-Comté region
After seven years at the helm of Substance, the Parisian restaurant he co-founded in 2018, Matthias Marc has announced his departure, effective December 31, 2025. A carefully considered decision, guided by the desire to open a new personal chapter.
Gault & Millau Turkey 2026: a gala evening for exceptional chefs and tables
News & Events
Gault & Millau Turkey 2026: a gala evening for exceptional chefs and tables
In Istanbul, the 2026 Gault&Millau Turkey trophies ceremony celebrated a new generation of chefs and addresses, revealing a bold, sustainable and resolutely international Turkish gastronomy.
Charles de Gaulle's former personal chef is a star in the United States
News & Events
Charles de Gaulle's former personal chef is a star in the United States
He is one of those who introduced French gastronomy to the American public. French chef Jacques Pépin, a cooking star in the United States, will soon be celebrating his 90th birthday.
Parisian restaurants where you can share a convivial meal
News & Events
Parisian restaurants where you can share a convivial meal
In Paris, some restaurants are reviving the spirit of the family table: a beautiful dish in the center, guests around it, and the simple joy of sharing something generous. Here's a selection of addresses serving real dishes to share, far from the trendy small plates.
Camille Saint-M'leux's good addresses
News & Events
Camille Saint-M'leux's good addresses
Camille Saint-M'leux, Grand de Demain 2026 at the Gault&Millau Tour Paris Île-de-France, reveals the names of his favorite artisans and producers in the region. Take notes!
L'Écrin, the Hôtel de Crillon's 4-toque restaurant, will soon close
News & Events
L'Écrin, the Hôtel de Crillon's 4-toque restaurant, will soon close
Open since 2017, L'Écrin de l'Hôtel de Crillon will perform its last service on December 31, 2025. The establishment is looking to expand its offering.
Become Partners