Contact

37-39 rue Boissière
75016 Paris
France

Phone : 01 41 40 99 80

GaultMillau © 2026 All rights reserved

Soon you may no longer be eating this shellfish in restaurants.

Soon you may no longer be eating this shellfish in restaurants.

A small shellfish much loved by gourmets is under threat, and is even beginning to disappear from some restaurant menus that once made it their specialty. Here's why.

Mathilde Bourge

If you're planning to spend the end of summer in Italy, or more precisely in the Venice region, you may be disappointed to miss out on one of the local specialties.be disappointed to miss out on one of the local specialties based on small shellfish. As you may have guessed, it's "spaghetti alle vongole", a typical recipe made with pasta and clams. Venice restaurants have been forced to remove this delicacy from their menus, and for a disturbing reason.

Crab in pasta instead of clams

While many tourists flock to Italy for its scenic beauty, its gastronomy is not to be outdone. But this summer, the spaghetti alle vongole is missing in action. The culprit? The blue crab, which has come from America to settle in the Mediterranean. In the Po delta, they devour clams, leaving fishermen with nothing but empty shells. "I don't know what's going to happen in the future. Over the last few months, things have gotten out of hand. The lagoon is becoming a desert", worries clam farmer Gianluca Travaglia to France Info, especially as the blue crab has no predator.

To counter this phenomenon, fishermen are being encouraged by the government to catch more blue crabs, renowned for their delicious meat. Some Italian chefs have even started using blue crabs in their dishes to replace clams. The crustacean could also be exported to the United States, its country of origin, where it is much appreciated by consumers.

Mantra, Malaysian cuisine tinged with French gastronomy
News & Events
Mantra, Malaysian cuisine tinged with French gastronomy
In Paris, some openings are discreet but embody new propositions. Mantra is one of them. An intimate table at the crossroads of two cultures, between Malaysia and France.
Philippe Conticini in 5 desserts
News & Events
Philippe Conticini in 5 desserts
From haute gastronomy to the most modern showcases, Philippe Conticini has fashioned a pastry of emotion and sharing. Here are five creations to retrace the career of a chef who has combined technique, sensitivity and pure gourmandise.
Jeffrey Pestana's good addresses
News & Events
Jeffrey Pestana's good addresses
At Château Louise de La Vallière, chef Jeffrey Pestana, head of L'Amphitryon (1 toque), creates his cuisine with producers chosen by feel. Sincere encounters, nurtured by exacting standards, rigor and shared stories.
Jérémie Le Calvez's good addresses
News & Events
Jérémie Le Calvez's good addresses
Jérémie Le Calvez, chef at La Pomme d'Api restaurant (4 toques) in Saint-Pol-de-Léon, Brittany, shares his tips for buying quality produce in the region.
New Parisian table: Anne-Sophie Pic at the Fondation Cartier
News & Events
New Parisian table: Anne-Sophie Pic at the Fondation Cartier
Anne-Sophie Pic is preparing to turn a page in its Parisian history. In 2026, she will close La Dame de Pic Paris and, a few months later, open a new restaurant in the Fondation Cartier pour l'art contemporain on rue de Rivoli.
Under the tree, flavours to read: chefs' books to give as gifts
News & Events
Under the tree, flavours to read: chefs' books to give as gifts
Christmas can be read as well as tasted! Give the gift of chefs' books, with their inventive recipes and crisp anecdotes, for gifts that awaken taste buds and curiosity."
Become Partners