48 hours in Belle-Île-en-Mer

Brittany/2022

Wild, touristy, arid or more clement, the Breton islands each have their own specific charm. What do they have in common? That part of mystery, made up of sailors' stories and legends. Belle-Île-en-Mer, the largest of the 15 Ponant islands, shares this tradition. But with a name like that, you have to live up to it. So, is it really so beautiful?

Our advice is to arrive in Sauzon and leave via Le Palais. The Quiberon - Belle-Île link is operated all year round by four companies. Before boarding at the ferry terminal, we take the opportunity to stroll along Quiberon's wild coastline, a magnificent, unspoiled site. Forty-five minutes later (a dozen kilometers separate the island from the mainland), you're in Sauzon. After that, it's all up to you: by bike (preferably electric, not because of the terrain, but because of the frequent wind), scooter or rental car (electric is also preferable, as it allows you to enjoy the scenery more and pollutes less). It's also possible to travel by cab or bus, and the many coastal paths and tracks will delight hikers. But be sure to plan your itinerary carefully: at 85 km2 and 17 km long, Belle-Île is the largest of the Ponant islands. The Romans already appreciated its beauty, but it didn't take its name until the Middle Ages. Long an ecclesiastical property, it was sold to Superintendent Fouquet in 1658, before being reclaimed by the Crown in 1718. Fishing and canning industries developed and prospered in the 19th century (the forerunners of La Belle-Îloise), shortly before tourism took off. The island attracted artists, painters (Claude Monet), writers (Gustave Flaubert) and actors (Sarah Bernhardt). In Sauzon, you can enjoy the atmosphere of a human-sized port, with its relaxed vacation atmosphere, terraces and seafood bistros. And don't forget to stop off at Plage du Donnant. To leave, take the Bangor road. Here you'll find the island's chicest hotel (Castel Clara), and above all the magnificent site of the rocks, with its plunging vistas over deep, bewitching turquoise water. Nearby, the Goulphar lighthouse is the highest on the island. It can be visited, offering a breathtaking view over the land. Pass through Kérel beach, the La Boulaye garden, with its 6 ha of greenery combining pruned trees and wild plants in a maze of paths, and the Pointe du Skeul, before arriving at Locmaria, a quiet little port dominated by its fortress. As an excursion, we'll push on to the Kerdonis lighthouse. Before heading back to the harbour, we stop to relax on the Grands Sables beach. Then it's back to civilization at Le Palais, a tourist center with numerous stalls and a busy Vauban citadel.