International
Thomas COLLOMB
Chef : 2 restaurants
Burgundy needs them! Bridgeheads, great chefs, spokespeople for this magnificent terroir. After the golden generation of Loiseau, Meneau, Lorain, Lameloise and Billoux, the landscape has naturally evolved. Some great houses remain, but the region no longer has quite the same gastronomic aura. Fortunately, a new generation, no doubt less focused on prestige and more on the truth of the product and the season, is gradually reclaiming these territories .
Thomas Collomb is one of them. Very attached to his region, he has, over the past twenty years or so, made his mark on a cuisine that is rooted in its roots, yet devoid of gilding. We first met him at La Cabotte in Nuits Saint-Georges, then at La Maison des Cariatides, where, a few years after David Zuddas, he gave Dijon a new lease of life. From this impetus was born a style, Burgundian without blinkers or archaism, but always proud. Thanks to Thomas Collomb, new personalities were to emerge, such as Angelo Ferrigno, who followed in his footsteps, and Sylvain Gauthey today .
At the same time, Thomas had a buried project, a project for himself, but also for his region. In that mythical generation we mentioned, there was a woman and a house: Céline Menneveau, who passed away too soon, had brought her Rôtisserie du Chambertin, a beautiful 18th-century building in the heart of Gevrey, up to 17/20. For the past ten years, Thomas Collomb has been reviving this magnificent address. Not as it was forty years ago, no doubt, but in his own way, tinged with respect and modernity .
"We're in the middle of some of the world's greatest wines. Thereshould be inns like this in every village," he comments enthusiastically. Half-Savoyard, half-Bourguignon, the chef knows he has to carry the banner between Dijon and Beaune. The mountains are a personal passion, but Burgundy is almost a duty, a priesthood. The house, which he has superbly renovated with his wife Lucie, is a model of elegant rusticity.It's a model of elegant rusticity, with old parquet floors, stone and exposed beams in the beautiful dining room upstairs, and a bistro on the first floor to further spread the regional message.
With Kevin Constantin, his chef, he has created two interlocking menus, a four-course lunch and a seven-course dinner. The sequence is refined, seasonal and committed, and the cellar is a magnificent ode to the climates that stretch over thirty magical kilometers. As soon as the table is set, the mangalitza ham he makes himself here in Burgundy is placed on the table, like a clear message of confidence. "Sometimes, and more and more often, there are intolerances and allergies, and we'd almost have to change the menu one dish at a time.But this is Burgundy! When a customer comes to "La Rôtisserie du Chambertin" - it's written on the door - and declares himself a vegetarian, I feel like saying "there's something you haven't understood! ". And of course, that doesn't mean you can't find excellent vegetable dishes here. Thank you Thomas, long live Burgundy, and cheers!
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