A winemaker based in Aÿ-Champagne, Romain Hénin is part of a new generation of Champenois who are striving to make cleaner champagnes.
It was in 2021 that Romain Hénin embarked on his winegrowing adventure after taking over the family estate: " Today it covers 7.5 hectares and there are four of us working on it. "From the outset, the 33-year-old winemaker disapproved of his parents' practices and transformed everything when he took over the estate: " We changed everything about the way we worked the vines and the soil, and we integrated vitiforestry. We planted 100 trees per hectare in the middle of the vines. We treat the vines with copper and sulfur. We also collect horsetail, yarrow, nettles and dandelion flowers to make infusions. "We take the same approach to winemaking. Romain Hénin was inspired by a number of winegrowers, and in particular Patrick Bouju, a leading figure in natural winegrowing in Auvergne: " In Champagne, the big challenge is to produce flawless natural wines while complying with the Champagne specifications. when tasting, the most important thing is not to be able to tell whether the wine is natural or not, but to notice the depth, energy and drinkability of my champagnes. "
Romain Hénin is a fervent advocate of non-dosed champagnes, whose mantra is to make wines that reflect the vintage and terroir: " I've always used to say that champagne is like coffee. We add sugar when the balance isn't right. It's the same for champagne. It has to be as low-dosed as possible, because if I harvest at the right ripeness and do the right thing in the cellar, I don't need to dose anything. "This is particularly true of one of his new cuvées, Entre les Gouttes , born of an extremely rainy 2021 vintage, with a low harvest: " I've never worked so hard for so little harvest. It was a trying year. I made between 2,000 and 2,200 bottles of this cuvée instead of the usual 6,000. "
In recent years, Champagne has been spared the vagaries of the weather, and winemakers are even seeing the positive impact of rising temperatures: " My parents used to harvest grapes at around 9° alcohol; today, I harvest grapes at 11° to 13°. What's more, our grapes are riper, even if this creates other problems, with higher pH levels and a lack of acidity. I'm not sure I would have gone into organic viticulture in my parents' day. You have to be aware of that. "Romain Hénin creates his cuvées without cheating or artifice. i make my champagnes as I would have liked to buy or drink them," he likes to say. I want all the information to be on the label, and I want my wines to reflect each vintage. That's why I only make vintage champagnes. I make fermented grape juice while respecting the Champagne specifications. "
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On a supermarket shelf, similar-looking bottles of wine are lined up at slightly contrasting prices. Without a salesperson, in a time-constrained food shopping area, a sticker placed like a jewel cuts through the act of purchasing. Gold, silver or bronze medals flash more brightly than a label that's not always easy to decipher.
Award-winning wine, featured wine
An award-winning wine is one that has been presented by the winery at one of the 127 competitions that award these precious badges (in 2024, according to the DGCCRF).
The famous Concours Général Agricole, founded in 1870, the world's best Chardonnay or Sauvignon competitions, the Brittany or Mâcon wine competitions, the Millésime Bio challenge... There's an embarrassment of riches to choose from, with no limit on participation, but not without a heavy hand in the wallet. For each cuvée entered, you'll need to pay between 10 and 150 euros, depending on the competition, not including postage and packaging costs and the purchase of macaroons in the event of victory.
Attractive spin-offs
A potentially interesting calculation, given the commercial visibility these awards bring. In the year following the award, sales of the vintage tend to increase by between 20% and 40%. A boon for the estate, event organizers and supermarkets alike.
All the more so as the medals are pouring in. In 2025, at the Concours Général Agricole, of the 12129 wines entered, 3361 were awarded medals, almost half of them gold. French legislation prohibits the awarding of more than a third of the samples presented. A quota with which most competitions flirt.
Amateur jury Who awards these accolades?
A volunteer jury, at their own expense. Mostly amateurs. The great need for people leaves little room for rigor or traceability. In 2025, at the Concours Général Agricole, over 7,000 people were needed to taste charcuterie, cheeses, jams and wines. At this year's Chardonnay du Monde competition, more than 300 jurors took part, with a limit of 20 samples per person.
The most famous estates, which don't need to boost their sales, tend to neglect these competitions. Artisanal wineries, on the other hand, may shy away from these competitions as a matter of distinction, since the shiny stickers are associated with supermarkets. A place where it takes the place of good professional advice. A wine merchant, for example, capable of selling the uniqueness of a cuvée he has followed over the years.
Fabrice Pouillon is the third generation to run the family domaine at Mareuil-sur-Aÿ in the Marne region of France, and he has an intrinsic respect for the heritage he has inherited: respect for the vines and for fine work. Constantly questioning himself, curious and eager to experiment, the Champenois celebrates his 26th harvest this September.
