Philipponnat, the aristocracy of champagne.
Charles Philipponnat, proud owner of the champagne house of the same name, is a wellspring of science. He knows the history of Champagne inside out. Nothing escapes him. With his curling eye and highly developed sartorial art, he is the embodiment of the elegant aristocracy of Champagne and the history of his family, which has lived in the Aÿ region since 1522.
To retrace this epic story, we were given the opportunity to taste the wines released this year (which you'll find in the soon-to-be-published Champagnes guide), as well as the legendary Clos des Goisses cuvée.
Clos des Goisses is a parcel of vines planted on magnificent south-facing slopes. Situated in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, the vineyard has a gradient of almost 45°, reflecting the origin of its name, in old Champagne "Gois, ou Goisse" meaning a sloping hillside. The vineyard is made up of 14 plots and covers 5 ha 40, with vines over 60 years old. Always vinified in wood, and now produced in all vintages, Clos des Goisses does not undergo malolactic fermentation. The result is a full-bodied, very vinous wine, bordering on opulence in certain vintages, with magnificent ageing potential. To see for himself, Charles Philipponnat offered us four vintages from this unique vineyard.
Clos des Goisses 1989
Notes of tonka bean, chocolate, spices and mulberry tree for a complex, perfectly matured nose. Great aromatic complexity. A fleshy, juicy, full-bodied Champagne with excellent acidity management. Currently expresses itself with length and an airy finish. 18,5/20
Clos des Goisses 1999
A mineral nose of warm pebbles, white fruit, toast and mulberry. Fresh and pure, the palate expresses its vinosity with imposing yet noble substance. A champagne that can wait another 10 years, without any problem, and thus become even more charming and racy. 18,5/20
Clos des Goisses 2006
A nose of honey, almonds and white fruit with generosity and aromatic breadth. Very slightly mentholated on aeration. Fleshy, less volume than usual, with liveliness and a fine woodiness that adds extra soul. 18/20
Clos des Goisses 2009
To be discovered in the forthcoming Gault&Millau Champagnes guide.
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Frédéric Berne, winemaker
Frédéric Berne, a winemaker who has been based in Lantignié since 2014, set up his domaine on a sharecropping basis with 4 hectares of Château des Vergers vines. Today, he farms 15 hectares organically, mainly in the communes of Lantignié in beaujolais-villages, but also in the morgon, chiroubles and régnié crus.
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