Please wait

Contact

37-39 rue Boissière
75016 Paris
France

Phone : 01 41 40 99 80

GaultMillau © 2025 All rights reserved

Old-fashioned mustard, the Gault&Millau test bench

Old-fashioned mustard, the Gault&Millau test bench

Rédaction | 4/2/24, 9:00 AM
Disable your adblocker

After the classic version, Gault&Millau presents its test bench for old-fashioned French mustard.

Unlike its classic, smooth cousin, old-fashioned mustard can be recognized by its coarsely ground brown and yellow grains. Its taste is often milder than Dijon mustard. Discover our test bench to find the mustard that's sure to join your condiment shelves. And if you've missed it, don't miss our best classic mustards.

Les Assaisonnements Briards ❤

J.B. Pommery, a millstone quarry operator, learned from the canons about their mustard preparation, which won a medal at the 1878 Paris Universal Exhibition. Lacking a successor, the Vinaigrerie du Lion produced its own vinegars and created Assaisonnement Briards. The famous recipe for Moutarde de Meaux ® Pommery® has remained intact. Collected in stoneware jars covered with corks, it is widely exported abroad, with a range extended to include lemon zest and basil, Espelette pepper...

Tasting Pommery® Moutarde de Meaux® : a tightly grained mustard, quite pale, appetizing, with a dense but not dry, well-balanced texture. The nose is pleasantly fruity, with hints of apple. The palate confirms an attack on autumn fruits, apple and pear, evolving on vegetal notes, artichoke leaf, always in harmony.

Maison Clarance

Together with his brother, François Lorin took over the family business of cereals and beet, now supplemented by mustard. Thus was born the choice to produce and manufacture the precious condiment from exclusively local seeds, traditionally ground on a stone millstone. A choice of 5 different mustards - Tradition, Grains, Honey, Tarragon or Saffron - are available on the site, in local stores, delicatessens and restaurants.

Tasting thisTradition mustard from Eure&Loir: a beautiful yellow-brown appearance, quite engaging, a smooth texture like cream. The nose is straightforward, not very pronounced, with hints of plants and gingerbread. The palate shows a good evolution, strong on the attack, finishing with a good richness on candied fruit brought by the cider vinegar, followed by notes of artichoke and Jerusalem artichoke. 85.5/100

Martin-Pouret

Martin-Pouret perpetuates a tradition of master vinegar makers, whose activity was intimately linked to the Loire River, through which "turned" wines were transported for processing. By extension, a tradition of condiments was developed using mustard seeds (now grown exclusively in the Loire Valley), immersed in vats of white wine, then ground to a fine grind. The range has expanded to 77 products (pickles, gherkins...and delicatessen products such as mustard aperitif bites or pike terrines with mustard confit).

Tasting thisOrléans mustard: a strong, fine-grained mustard, fairly fluid and diluted, lacking a little density and mouthfeel, but with a good, clean, powerful taste, in a classic vein with a good creaminess. The attack is lively and pleasant, evolving on fermentative notes, the consensual palate evoking autumn and humus.

Domaine des Terres Rouges

Domaine des Terres Rouges owes its name to its original location in Collonges-la-Rouge, Corrèze. In 2015, it relocated to Alsace, where the local industry is given priority for its mustard recipes, which contain no additives or preservatives (20 recipes in all, from the traditional "à l'ancienne" to "Dijon").à l'ancienne" or "Dijon" to those with cognac, porcini mushrooms, tarragon, beer, basil, wild garlic.) and horseradish, the brand's other flagship condiment. Some 15 farmers and over 70 hectares of mustard seed fields contribute to the adventure.

Tastingold-fashioned Dijon mustard: a compact, homogeneous appearance, a well-made mustard with a pasty tendency and a moist, well-presented nose. The attack is powerful, well constituted, stronger than expected, with the grains sufficiently blended to leave a smooth texture. A good compromise for a strong mustard with grains.

Reine de Dijon

Reine de Dijon celebrated its 180th anniversary by banning all preservatives from its production. All Reine de Dijon mustards distributed in France are made from French mustard seeds. As a member of the Association Moutarde de Bourgogne, it produces an IGP-certified Burgundy mustard, a product whose ingredients (mustard seeds and white wine) are of Burgundian origin, and processed in Burgundy. The flavored versions take us across France with a crème de cassis base; Madagascar pepper, Espelette pepper or garlic and rosemary.

Tasting this old-fashioned mustard: it reveals a powerful nose and mouthfeel, with tightly-packed grains. The texture is balanced without being too thick, giving it good persistence, but the finish lacks complexity and nuance.

Disable your adblocker

These news might interest you

Promoting Roussillon wines
News & Events
Promoting Roussillon wines
The globe-trotting Bordeaux winemaker loves the richness and diversity of his Roussillon estate. A vineyard from which he knows how to produce highly original cuvées.
Anthony Bisquerra's good addresses
News & Events
Anthony Bisquerra's good addresses
Anthony Bisquerra, recognized as Grand de Demain at the Gault&Millau Tour Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, reveals his tips for buying bread, cheese and wine in the Annecy area.
At the heart of the Paris of arts and culture, Le Meurice, the first Parisian luxury hotel
Hotels & Bed & Breakfast
At the heart of the Paris of arts and culture, Le Meurice, the first Parisian luxury hotel
Every month, Gault&Millau plunges you into the history of a great Parisian palace. In May, discover the first Parisian hotel to be called a "palace": Le Meurice.
Why do we like some foods and not others?
News & Events
Why do we like some foods and not others?
What makes some dishes mouth-watering and others not at all appealing? To explain this, we need to look at how the brain works.
Breton gin wins international awards
News & Events
Breton gin wins international awards
Distillerie du Morbihan wins a silver medal at the IWSC 2025 for its Algaïa gin, already a gold winner at the Gin Guide Awards. Recognition that rewards the artisanal excellence and aromatic boldness of a Breton spirit like no other.
Olivier Nasti organizes the first ever World Game Pie Championship
Craftsmen & Know-How
Olivier Nasti organizes the first ever World Game Pie Championship
An heirloom dish, three MOFs and an exceptional jury: on November 18, 2025, eight finalists compete in the first ever World Championship of Tourte de Gibier - Le Meilleur Pithiviers.
Become Partners