Old-fashioned mustard, the Gault&Millau test bench

After the classic version, Gault&Millau presents its test bench for old-fashioned French mustard.

Rédaction Published on 4/2/24 at 9:00 AM

Unlike its classic, smooth cousin, old-fashioned mustard can be recognized by its coarsely ground brown and yellow grains. Its taste is often milder than Dijon mustard. Discover our test bench to find the mustard that's sure to join your condiment shelves. And if you've missed it, don't miss our best classic mustards.

Les Assaisonnements Briards ❤

J.B. Pommery, a millstone quarry operator, learned from the canons about their mustard preparation, which won a medal at the 1878 Paris Universal Exhibition. Lacking a successor, the Vinaigrerie du Lion produced its own vinegars and created Assaisonnement Briards. The famous recipe for Moutarde de Meaux ® Pommery® has remained intact. Collected in stoneware jars covered with corks, it is widely exported abroad, with a range extended to include lemon zest and basil, Espelette pepper...

Tasting Pommery® Moutarde de Meaux® : a tightly grained mustard, quite pale, appetizing, with a dense but not dry, well-balanced texture. The nose is pleasantly fruity, with hints of apple. The palate confirms an attack on autumn fruits, apple and pear, evolving on vegetal notes, artichoke leaf, always in harmony.

5, avenue Louise-Michel, 77100 Nanteuil-lès-Meaux
7.60 euros (250 g)
www.moutarde-de-meaux.com

Maison Clarance

Together with his brother, François Lorin took over the family business of cereals and beet, now supplemented by mustard. Thus was born the choice to produce and manufacture the precious condiment from exclusively local seeds, traditionally ground on a stone millstone. A choice of 5 different mustards - Tradition, Grains, Honey, Tarragon or Saffron - are available on the site, in local stores, delicatessens and restaurants.

Tasting thisTradition mustard from Eure&Loir: a beautiful yellow-brown appearance, quite engaging, a smooth texture like cream. The nose is straightforward, not very pronounced, with hints of plants and gingerbread. The palate shows a good evolution, strong on the attack, finishing with a good richness on candied fruit brought by the cider vinegar, followed by notes of artichoke and Jerusalem artichoke. 85.5/100

39, Bellandas 28250 Digny
5.30 euros (140 g)
www.maisonclarance.com

Martin-Pouret

Martin-Pouret perpetuates a tradition of master vinegar makers, whose activity was intimately linked to the Loire River, through which "turned" wines were transported for processing. By extension, a tradition of condiments was developed using mustard seeds (now grown exclusively in the Loire Valley), immersed in vats of white wine, then ground to a fine grind. The range has expanded to 77 products (pickles, gherkins...and delicatessen products such as mustard aperitif bites or pike terrines with mustard confit).

Tasting thisOrléans mustard: a strong, fine-grained mustard, fairly fluid and diluted, lacking a little density and mouthfeel, but with a good, clean, powerful taste, in a classic vein with a good creaminess. The attack is lively and pleasant, evolving on fermentative notes, the consensual palate evoking autumn and humus.

236, rue du Faubourg-Bannier 45400 Fleury-les-Aubrais
www.martin-pouret.com

Domaine des Terres Rouges

Domaine des Terres Rouges owes its name to its original location in Collonges-la-Rouge, Corrèze. In 2015, it relocated to Alsace, where the local industry is given priority for its mustard recipes, which contain no additives or preservatives (20 recipes in all, from the traditional "à l'ancienne" to "Dijon").à l'ancienne" or "Dijon" to those with cognac, porcini mushrooms, tarragon, beer, basil, wild garlic.) and horseradish, the brand's other flagship condiment. Some 15 farmers and over 70 hectares of mustard seed fields contribute to the adventure.

Tastingold-fashioned Dijon mustard: a compact, homogeneous appearance, a well-made mustard with a pasty tendency and a moist, well-presented nose. The attack is powerful, well constituted, stronger than expected, with the grains sufficiently blended to leave a smooth texture. A good compromise for a strong mustard with grains.

4, rue de la Gare 67580 Mietesheim
6.50 euros (200 g)
www.domaine-terres-rouges.net

Reine de Dijon

Reine de Dijon celebrated its 180th anniversary by banning all preservatives from its production. All Reine de Dijon mustards distributed in France are made from French mustard seeds. As a member of the Association Moutarde de Bourgogne, it produces an IGP-certified Burgundy mustard, a product whose ingredients (mustard seeds and white wine) are of Burgundian origin, and processed in Burgundy. The flavored versions take us across France with a crème de cassis base; Madagascar pepper, Espelette pepper or garlic and rosemary.

Tasting this old-fashioned mustard: it reveals a powerful nose and mouthfeel, with tightly-packed grains. The texture is balanced without being too thick, giving it good persistence, but the finish lacks complexity and nuance.