Classic mustard, the Gault&Millau test bench

Mustard has been known since ancient times, arriving in France from China and the Middle East, and establishing itself in Burgundy, an important commercial hub. In the Middle Ages, mustard production in Burgundy was particularly successful, thanks to the importance and determination of the Duchy of Burgundy, whose vineyards provided one of the raw materials needed for its production, vinegar. This reputation was consolidated in the 18th century when master vinegar-maker Jean-Baptiste Naigeon, whose descendants went on to create the Amora brand, came up with the idea of sweetening mustard somewhat by replacing vinegar with verjuice.

In the 18th century, mustard fields could be found in several French regions. Planting was gradually abandoned in favor of more lucrative crops, and mustard cultivation has all but disappeared from the country since the Second World War. A highly prized condiment in France, hexagonal mustard is made from seeds most often sourced abroad. In 2009, however, an association of mustard-makers and producers in Burgundy led to the creation of an IGP mustard de Bourgogne, certifying the manufacture of mustards from seeds grown in Burgundy. Mustard, used in France mainly as a green manure to protect and enrich the soil, has recently enjoyed renewed interest as a base for the famous condiment... The shortage of mustard seeds following the drought in Canada and the war in Ukraine, the country's two main suppliers, has largely contributed to this revival. But production continues to fall short of widespread consumption in France.

Classic or old-fashioned, what's the difference?

Mustard seeds are ground using a variety of processes (most traditionally with a millstone, as with wheat flour), before being mixed with vinegar, salt, oil and water.vinegar, salt, sugar, verjuice and spices (the famous yellow-brown mustard loved by Americans, also known as "hot dog mustard", contains turmeric). If the mustard is not completely sieved, it retains the seed hulls to obtain this beautiful "old-fashioned mustard" with golden-brown grains.

6 classic mustards worth the detour

At Gault&Millau, we've put together a test bench of classic mustards. Discover 6 references that tickled our taste buds.

Moutarderie Edmond Fallot ❤

Beaune remains the birthplace of the last independent mustard factory. Burgundy mustard is a PDO prepared in Burgundy, with ingredients (mustard seeds and wines) from Burgundy. The family business, run by Marc Désarménien, grandson of Edmond Fallot, has developed an international dynamic, exporting more than half of its production. of its production, which is sold in France in fine grocery stores and supermarkets (Paul Bocuse, Éric Pras or Jean-François Piège... ).

Tasting thisDijon mustard: Bright, homogeneous appearance, fairly soft texture, strong nose with a strong vinegar note. Balanced on the palate, with a powerful, vinegary attack. This is a fairly classic mustard with no flaws, lacking moderate character, but well in line.

• 31, rue du Faubourg-Bretonnière 21200 Beaune
• 3.30 euros (210g)
• www.fallot.com

Les Assaisonnements Briards

J.B. Pommery, a millstone quarry operator, learned from the canons about their mustard preparation, which won a medal at the 1878 Paris Universal Exhibition. Lacking a successor, the Vinaigrerie du Lion produced its own vinegars and created Assaisonnement Briards. The famous recipe for Moutarde de Meaux ® Pommery® has remained intact. Collected in stoneware jars covered with corks, it is widely exported abroad, with a range extended to include lemon zest and basil, Espelette pepper...

Tasting thisLion mustard: A slightly dark yellow appearance, like an aromatized mustard, a balanced, not too thick texture, a straightforward but powerful nose, and a fairly long finish.The palate is quite soft, strong on the attack, but quickly calms down, evolving in good balance with the vinegar and controlled acidity.

• 5, avenue Louise-Michel, 77100 Nanteuil-lès-Meaux
• 7.10 euros (250 g)
• www.moutarde-de-meaux.com

Reine de Dijon

Reine de Dijon celebrated its 180th anniversary by banning all preservatives from its production. All Reine de Dijon mustards distributed in France are made from French mustard seeds. As a member of the Association Moutarde de Bourgogne, it produces an IGP-certified Burgundy mustard, a product whose ingredients (mustard seeds and white wine) are of Burgundian origin, and processed in Burgundy. The flavored versions take us across France with a crème de cassis base, Madagascar pepper, Espelette pepper or garlic and rosemary.

Tasting thisBurgundy mustard: Homogeneous in appearance, a little dull, with a pleasant, slightly grainy texture, the pale nose lacks typicality. The palate is harmonious, rather soft, with honeyed notes on tasting, bringing a certain character and sweetness.

• 1, rue des Combets 21410 Fleurey-sur-Ouche
• 4.90 euros (200 g)
• www.reinededijon.fr

Domaine des Terres Rouges

Domaine des Terres Rouges owes its name to its original location in Collonges-la-Rouge, Corrèze. In 2015, it relocated to Alsace, where the local industry is the first to be called upon to apply mustard recipes without additives or preservatives (20 recipes in all, from the traditional "à l'ancienne" or "Dijon" to those with cognac, porcini mushrooms, tarragon, beer, basil, wild garlic, etc.).) and horseradish, the brand's other flagship condiment. Some 15 farmers and over 70 hectares of mustard seed fields contribute to the adventure.

Tasting thissweet mustard: A sweetened version that makes it almost a condiment in its own right. It has a yellow-green appearance, with varied aromas and a creamy, compact texture. The palate rounds out with aromatics and spices, finishing with a coherent result that delivers on its promise.

• 4, rue de la Gare 67580 Mietesheim
• 6,50€ (200 g)
• ww.domaine-terres-rouges.net

Reine de Dijon

Reine de Dijon celebrated its 180th anniversary by banning all preservatives from its production. All Reine de Dijon mustards distributed in France are made from French mustard seeds. As a member of the Association Moutarde de Bourgogne, it produces an IGP-certified Burgundy mustard, a product whose ingredients (mustard seeds and white wine) are of Burgundian origin, and processed in Burgundy. The flavored versions take us across France with a crème de cassis base, Madagascar pepper, Espelette pepper or garlic and rosemary.

Tasting notes for this Dijon mustard: A yellow color that's not too deep, a nice sheen, a pleasant consistency, not too pasty nor too liquid. On the palate, the texture is supple and unctuous, not too oily. The attack is frank and powerful, then the palate evolves towards a softer texture and a finish that quietly fades away, without any real complexity or exaggerated character.

• 1, rue des Combets 21410 Fleurey-sur-Ouche
• 3.90 euros (100 g)
• www.reinededijon.fr

Domaine des Terres Rouges

Domaine des Terres Rouges owes its name to its original location in Collonges-la-Rouge, Corrèze. In 2015, it relocated to Alsace, where the local industry is the first to be called upon to apply its mustard recipes without additives or preservatives (20 recipes in all, from traditional "à l'ancienne" to "Dijon").à l'ancienne" or "Dijon" to those with cognac, porcini mushrooms, tarragon, beer, basil, wild garlic.) and horseradish, the brand's other flagship condiment. Some fifteen farmers and over 70 hectares of mustard seed fields contribute to the adventure.

Tasting thisDijon mustard: A fairly bright, pale yellow mustard, with a fairly neutral nose of classic mustard. The palate is not very powerful, almost timid, with a slightly oily, mayonnaise-like aftertaste. It works well as an accompaniment, without being aggressive. 59/100

• 4, rue de la Gare 67580 Mietesheim
• 6.50 euros (200 g)
• www.domaine-terres-rouges.net