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Chefs' tables: what if we ate in the intimacy of their kitchens?

Chefs' tables: what if we ate in the intimacy of their kitchens?

Bérangère Chanel | 12/5/23, 5:08 PM
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Table d'hôtes for some, secret lair for others. More and more chefs are setting aside a separate service, out of sight, to offer a more singular restaurant experience.

Sometimes intimate, but always discreet. There are tables you don't notice when you enter a restaurant. That's hardly surprising, since they're usually tucked away behind the main dining room, deliciously sheltered in the kitchens. In Joucas, at Le Phébus & Spa (Var), chef Xavier Mathieu gives lucky diners the opportunity to taste dishes being prepared, while he can also serve them himself. In the opinion of the chefs we interviewed, this secret interlude not only breaks the routine of the coup de feu, but also promises a moment of conviviality. In Paris, at Gargouille, what Jules Behar and Arthur Billard refer to as a side table, reinforces the sharing spirit of their culinary DNA inspired by Mediterranean flavors. Here are five more ways to enjoy these singular experiences.

The most luxurious in Paris

At the Le Meurice hotel in Paris, the chef's table invites you to enjoy a hushed experience in a hidden room, where the lightThe light comes either from the window, from which you can watch the kitchen brigade at work, or from the oval, gilded table. The light is reflected in the bubbles served by Dom Pérignon, which is collaborating with the palace on this gastronomic experience. Two menus have been devised to match the elixirs of the prestigious vintage champagne with the sensibility of chef Amaury Bouhours' cuisine.

Mark Read

The most bespoke in Nantes

" When we were renovating during the health crisis, we realized that there was space available in the kitchen to create what I like to call a table d'hôtes ," explains Mathieu Pérou. When he was sous-chef at top Japanese chef Tetsuya Wakuda's restaurant in Sydney (Australia), our Demain 2024 Grand was involved in the same type of experience, serving guests in a separate room with its own kitchen. In Nantes, the chef at Manoir de la Régate wanted to recapture this proximity, while inviting guests to enjoy a convivial meal, notably around generous dishes to share, such as pike-perch koulibiac or hare à la royale. Cleverly integrated into the kitchen and designed so that the six guests can enjoy a 180° view, the table is also a good place to taste the chef's new creations before everyone else, as he fine-tunes the final details of a recipe.

Paul Stefanaggi

The most iodized in Marseille

In this large cabanon, which was once a divers' den before becoming one of the most recommended spots for lovers of marine flavors, chef Sylvain Roucayrol now offers the pleasure of instant dining at a table, designated as the chef's table. So, no longer will you come to this Marseilles hotel just for the view, but also to take part in a unique meal at Tuba, provided by chef Roucayrol's total improvisation. No menu, just the flavors dictated by each day's fishing and market. A unique experience for 8 to 12 people.

Delaney Inamine and N.Mohadjer

The most intimate near Lille

In the greater Lille area,Edouard Chouteau 's table offers a distinct kitchen experience, if you ask for it. A rectangular solid wood table, seating six, offers a privileged view of the pass. For the lucky ones, the triple-tasted chef reserves ultra-millimeter service to suit the desires of La Laiterie's lucky guests. " This table allows me to break my routine. We can offer different things ," he explains, delighting in the special bond he forges with customers during this type of service. He adds: "We want to offer a unique and different experience.

Marco Strullu

The scabbiest in Gaillac

" I've talked to more people at my table d'hôtes than at L'Amphitryon in 25 years. The closeness with guests is completely different. By welcoming them into my home, I could be at their side from the beginning to the end of the meal, whereas in a gourmet restaurant, you only meet them at the end of the service", remembers the chef.at the end of the service", recalls Yannick Delpech of Cuisine sans dépendance, located in Gaillac, which will close in August 2023. The chef from Tarn has just embarked on a new project, this time in Toulouse, called Acte 2, which takes up the codes of this secret table while serving gastronomic creations. Only fifteen guests are catered for per service. In short, the entire restaurant is devoted to an intimate offering.

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