Our Favorite Tables for Fall

After a brief tour of the Gard region and then the neighboring Hérault, a stop in the Côtes-d’Armor region, and finally a visit to Paris, the Gault&Millau guide’s reviewers have identified five new spots to book right away.

Marc Esquerré Published today at 06:32

From Gard to Hérault, from Côtes-d'Armor to Paris, the inspectors from the Gault&Millau guide have uncovered five new restaurants you absolutely must try.

Aronde aux Matelles (34)

A new, unpretentious spot to discover at the foot of Pic Saint-Loup. In the shade of the hackberry trees, you’ll thoroughly enjoy Chef Julien Vahl’s well-kept menu, which balances tradition and modernity while never failing to surprise with intriguing—yet perfectly executed—pairings: raw wild shrimp with a fig leaf vinaigrette and almond milk, julienned kohlrabi marinated in brine; a delightful ratatouille served at room temperature, with Choron sauce, a pistachio-caper condiment, and garlic breadcrumbs; and pork chop with young green chickpeas, meat jus sliced with mint oil, and fresh cherries and cherry juice. Skillful service led by the ever-smiling Lucie. A lovely wine cellar and excellent recommendations.

12.5/20 – 1 toque
Where? 176 Route de Montpellier, 34270 Les Matelles
See the Gault&Millau review of the Aronde restaurant

©Polar Label

Doian in Ploëzal (22)

He greets guests, handles reservations, takes orders, prepares cocktails, serves, handles the cash register… and naturally finds time to shop at the market and, of course, cook. Christophe Hervo has a real knack for organization! After studying architecture, he ultimately found himself drawn to a different path. With a methodical approach, he thrives in his small establishment, which has the feel of a table d’hôte, as he himself describes it. It’s spotless and decorated with touching simplicity. The Brazilian soundtrack warms the atmosphere. Using ultra-local ingredients—with vegetables playing a central role—he offers meticulously crafted dishes served blind, each one a delight to savor. Take, for example, the slightly crispy squid served with nearly grilled shiitake mushrooms. Pickled black radishes and a cider-infused mushroom jelly add a lively touch to the meal, as does the roasted barley cappuccino. The line-caught pollock fillet is served with roasted carrots, eggplant, and zucchini. The basil gives the dish a special zing. Finally, he dares to serve beets in syrup and sorbet for the grand finale. Though quite sweet, the beets overshadow the strawberries a bit too much. A short wine list.

12/20 – 1 toque
Where? 15 Rue du Goëlo, 22260 Ploëzal
See the Gault&Millau review of the Doiañ restaurant

Le Schiap by Stéphane Pitré in Paris (75)

Like all former patrons of the restaurant Louis in the capital’s 9th arrondissement, we’re delighted that Chef Stéphane Pitré has quickly found a kitchen where he can express his vision. In the somewhat austere setting of a contemporary building near the Champs-Élysées, the dining room—decorated with motifs by Elsa Schiaparelli, who once lived here—exudes warmth and distinction, especially as the dishes begin to arrive. His talent has undeniably returned. With it come seasonal dishes that are elegant in their flavors: cannelloni stuffed with crab meat in a rémoulade, grapefruit jelly, and an avocado-yuzu condiment; skin-on roasted line-caught sea bass, grilled vegetables, and a garlic-infused vinaigrette; a melon medley served over a fresh mint consommé and mojito sorbet. Two chef’s hats are also awarded right off the bat, as we await the evolution of this restaurant that is already making waves.

13/20 – 2 toques
Where? 22 Rue de Berri, 75008 Paris
See the Gault&Millau review of Le Schiap by Stéphanie Pitré

Le Schiap by Stéphane Pitré 2©dr

L’Oxalis by Clive Joyce in Collias (30)

Chef Clive Joyce, well established in Collias, just a few minutes from the Pont du Gard, is at the helm of L’Oxalis, where he carefully selects the ingredients for his unique menu, which he regularly updates. Generous portions and a very floral style of cooking, inspired by his various travels. Highlights include, among others, a poached free-range egg served with local asparagus; semi-cooked tuna with Caribbean sauce, zucchini espuma, and peas and carrots; and low-temperature-cooked Ségala veal with cherry compote and sweet onion cream. Pleasant service and a well-curated wine cellar.

12/20 – 1 toque
Where? 35 Grand Rue, 30210 Collias
See the Gault&Millau review ofL’Oxalis by Clive Joyce

Maison Ruggieri in Paris (75)

A triumphant return to the flavors of Puglia by Martino Ruggieri, whom we’d known for quite some time from his previous restaurant on Rue Treilhard in Paris. Before discovering the chef’s cuisine, his wife Mariella offers a brief lesson in poetry, describing the dishes in a way that opens the mind. The menu titles set the tone: “Letter from a Correspondent” at €300 and “Short Letter from a Correspondent” at €200. The meal begins with a subtle amuse-bouche: an artichoke jelly cocktail served with a tomato ice cube. A delicate start. We continue with lobster poached in tarragon broth, which emerges with a pearlescent sheen, complemented by whipped cream with lobster coral, kachumbari, and cucumber spaghetti; followed by a subtle nod to Japanese cuisine, pairing udon and orecchiette noodles—lightly charred—with a beurre blanc sauce refreshed with tomato water. We continue this culinary journey with radicchio that melts in the mouth, offering a slight bitterness softened by two condiments—one with herbs and the other with kumquat—along with a radicchio-lychee sauce that adds sweetness and a beautiful color. A silky interlude is offered with an almond cream and mozzarella water topped with Colonnata bacon, before a stunning surf-and-turf dish: red mullet, grilled cuttlefish, chicken livers, cime di rapa, and a bold red mullet bisque. An original pre-dessert features apricot, apricot jelly, and peanut-olive oil ice cream, before finishing with a melt-in-your-mouth pear brioche, to be dipped in a pear sabayon. The sauces were a great success—silky, elegant, and refined, all executed with great mastery. The staff was efficient, with the chef himself coming out to the dining room to present his dishes; the wine list was on par with the quality of the cuisine served.