Maison Ruggieri

Rating: 15.5
Author: Gault&Millau

111 Galerie de Valois, 75001 Paris, France

15.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

8 PHOTOS

Location: Paris
Chef: Martino Ruggieri
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine
Style: Elegant, Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

200 to 300

Gault&Millau's review 2026

15,5/20

Remarkable Restaurant

A triumphant return to Apulia by Martino Ruggieri, whom we had known long before his time on Rue Treilhard. Before discovering the chef’s cuisine, his wife Mariella offers a brief lesson in poetry, describing the dishes in a way that opens the mind. The menu titles set the tone: “Letter from a Correspondent” at €300 and “Short Letter from a Correspondent” at €200. The meal begins with a subtle amuse-bouche: a cocktail of artichoke jelly with a tomato ice cube—a delicate start. We continue with lobster subtly poached in a tarragon broth, which emerges with a pearlescent sheen, complemented by whipped cream with lobster coral, kachumbari, and cucumber spaghetti; followed by a subtle nod to Japanese cuisine with a combination of udon and orecchiette pasta, lightly charred and served with a beurre blanc sauce refreshed with tomato water; we continue this culinary journey with radicchio that melts in the mouth with a slight bitterness, softened by two condiments (one with herbs and the other with kumquat), and a radicchio-lychee sauce that adds sweetness and a beautiful color. A silky interlude is offered with an almond-mozzarella water cream topped with Colonnata bacon, followed by a stunning land-and-sea dish featuring red mullet, grilled cuttlefish, chicken livers, cime di rapa, and a bold red mullet bisque. An original pre-dessert featuring apricot, apricot jelly, and peanut-olive oil ice cream, followed by a melt-in-your-mouth pear brioche to dip in a pear sabayon. The sauces were a standout—silky, elegant, and refined, all executed with great mastery. The staff was efficient, with the chef himself coming out to the dining room to present his dishes; the wine list was on par with the quality of the cuisine served.