The Parisian spots that Simon Horwitz recommends without hesitation
The chef at Elmer in Paris shares his favorite spots for buying wine, cheese, flowers, bread, and a few treats. Definitely worth taking note of.
At the helmof Elmer ( 2 toques) since 2015 in Paris’s 3rd arrondissement, Simon Horwitz champions a generous, modern, and welcoming style of cuisine, shaped by his past experience working with chefs such as Sylvestre Wahid, Pierre Gagnaire, and Bertrand Grébaut. But when he steps away from his restaurant’s kitchen, the chef also enjoys visiting a few artisans and shopkeepers whose work he particularly admires. From wine to cheese, bread, flowers, and pastries, here are the spots he recommends.
Wine from Delicatessen Cave, Paris
When it comes to choosing a bottle in Paris, Simon Horwitz has one specific spot in mind: Delicatessen Cave, located on Rue Amelot in the 11th arrondissement. The chef particularly appreciates this wine shop’s selection, which gives pride of place to natural wines without limiting itself to them. What he likes most is the team’s ability to unearth small estates and unique selections. “It often amuses me because I find wines there that we also have on our menu, ” he says. The chef doesn’t necessarily stop by very often, but each of his visits usually results in a few purchases. “Every time, I leave with three or four bottles.” This trust is also due to the team’s recommendations, which he finds particularly insightful.
- Where? Delicatessen Cave, 136 rue Amelot, 75011 Paris
- @delicatessencave
Cheeses from Taka & Vermo, Paris
Another must-visit spot for Simon Horwitz: Taka & Vermo, the cheese shop run by Laure Takahashi and Mathieu Vermorel. The couple, who opened their shop around the same time the chef was launching Elmer, curates a selection of farm-made and raw-milk cheeses from small-scale producers. “They’re adorable, ” says the chef, who particularly appreciates their sourcing efforts. At Taka & Vermo, you’ll of course find classics like Saint-Nectaire, Ossau-Iraty, and Gruyère, but Simon Horwitz mainly goes there to seek out cheeses that are off the beaten path. A Gouda made in France, small-scale goat cheese producers from Saône-et-Loire , and even more obscure cheeses: “What I really love about them is that they have things that are out of the ordinary.” The selection now exceeds 200 varieties, ranging from farm-style cheeses to in-house creations and cheeses aged in their own cellar. The chef specifically mentions Mont Vully and Sakura.
- Where? Taka & Vermo, 61 bis rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010 Paris
- @takavermocheeseshop
Flowers from Art et Nature, Paris
To bring a touch of color to Elmer, Simon Horwitz turns to Art et Nature, located on Rue Dupetit-Thouars in the 3rd arrondissement, just a short walk from the Carreau du Temple. The shop specializes in flowers, plants, and—above all—floral arrangements. The chef doesn’t go there for a traditional bouquet. “She’s an artist,” he says. What he loves about the shop is the personality she infuses into every arrangement. “You hand her a vase and tell her to let her creativity run wild, and she’ll come up with something incredible.”
Art et Nature creates the floral decorations for the restaurant, with arrangements that change and don’t necessarily resemble what you’d find at a traditional florist. “She always has things you can’t find anywhere else, ” explains Simon Horwitz, who also appreciates the way each element is presented. It’s a bit more expensive than a typical florist, the chef acknowledges, but he believes the price is justified by a genuine artistic approach. “It’s truly one of a kind.”
- Where? Art et Nature, 12 rue Dupetit-Thouars, 75003 Paris
- @artetnature75
Christophe Louie’s panettone, Paris
It’s hard for Simon Horwitz to talk about great places to eat without mentioning Christophe Louie. The chef goes to this artisan in particular for his panettone, which has become one of the restaurant’s specialties. The most surprising part? Simon Horwitz readily admits: “I hate candied fruit, and yet I love his panettone.” An exception rare enough to be worth noting.
But Christophe Louie doesn’t limit himself to this Italian brioche. He also bakes sourdough bread and offers a selection of pastries, especially on weekends. When Elmer runs out of bread, Simon Horwitz knows exactly where to go: “We bake our own bread, but when I’m in a pinch, I go to him.” Among his other favorites are the apple turnovers, the rhubarb turnovers, and the flan.
- Where? Christophe Louie, 12 rue Dupetit-Thouars, 75003 Paris
- @christophelouie
Jacques Genin’s Pastries, Paris
The final stop on this culinary journey: Jacques Genin. Simon Horwitz is a regular at the shop, where he appreciates the work of both the chocolatier and his daughter, Jade. “To me, they’re the best chocolatiers and pastry chefs in the world, ” the chef declares when discussing their work. He particularly admires the father-daughter duo, each with their own distinct personality. Jade trained under her father and, according to him, has “a refined palate, ” while developing a style all her own. Jacques Genin, for his part, maintains a more traditional approach, with a mastery of the classics that he knows “like the back of his hand.”
Simon Horwitz admits to having a particular soft spot for the house flan: “I’m a big fan of flan, and I’ve never tasted one better than this one.” He’s just as enthusiastic about the Paris-Brest and the galette des rois. And when the warm weather arrives, the chef doesn’t hesitate to make a detour for another house specialty: the ice cream.
- Where? Jacques Genin, 133 rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris, or 27 rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris
- @jacquesgenin