Is France no longer the number 1 country for gastronomy?
With 51 days to go until the Olympic Games, France is preparing to welcome millions of visitors. France, renowned for the quality of its gastronomy, has been called into question in this sector by a recent study.
Gastronomy, the jewel in France's cultural crown, seems to be losing its lustre. Even though, for the past three decades, France has been the most visited country in the world, with no fewer than 100 million visitors expected by 2023. Yet, according to 30,000 of these same visitors, France is no longer the benchmark it once was. At least, that's the conclusion offered by a study carried out by Harris Interactive for Atout France, the public tourism development operator. According to the results, Italy and Spain are better references in this respect.
Hospitality and communication at odds
The results of the study do not call into question the quality of France's local produce, or even the quality of the dishes served in many of its restaurants. However, according to Atout France, several points considered to be "criteria of prime importance" are less well respected than in our Latin neighbors. The emphasis is on communication problems, more specifically on the part of tour operators. It would appear that tourists are being misdirected towards tourist breweries. This is a double whammy, as the latter are not always culinary references. In addition to misdirecting customers, French establishments are also criticized for not having an English-language menu. This is a real problem when it comes to understanding the food and wine that are so often the pride of our regions.
With just a month and a half to go before an Olympic period that promises to be eventful and rich in visitors, the time has surely come for French gastronomy to regain its letters of nobility. To do so, we'll have to get our reception and communication with tourists right.
These news might interest you
Should we trust the medals on the bottles?
On a supermarket shelf, similar-looking bottles of wine are lined up at slightly contrasting prices. Without a salesperson, in a time-constrained food shopping area, a sticker placed like a jewel cuts through the act of purchasing. Gold, silver or bronze medals flash more brightly than a label that's not always easy to decipher. Award-winning wine, featured wine An award-winning wine is one that has been presented by the winery at one of the 127 competitions that award these precious badges (in 2024, according to the DGCCRF). The famous Concours Général Agricole, founded in 1870, the world's best Chardonnay or Sauvignon competitions, the Brittany or Mâcon wine competitions, the Millésime Bio challenge... There's an embarrassment of riches to choose from, with no limit on participation, but not without a heavy hand in the wallet. For each cuvée entered, you'll need to pay between 10 and 150 euros, depending on the competition, not including postage and packaging costs and the purchase of macaroons in the event of victory. Attractive spin-offs A potentially interesting calculation, given the commercial visibility these awards bring. In the year following the award, sales of the vintage tend to increase by between 20% and 40%. A boon for the estate, event organizers and supermarkets alike. All the more so as the medals are pouring in. In 2025, at the Concours Général Agricole, of the 12129 wines entered, 3361 were awarded medals, almost half of them gold. French legislation prohibits the awarding of more than a third of the samples presented. A quota with which most competitions flirt. Amateur jury Who awards these accolades? A volunteer jury, at their own expense. Mostly amateurs. The great need for people leaves little room for rigor or traceability. In 2025, at the Concours Général Agricole, over 7,000 people were needed to taste charcuterie, cheeses, jams and wines. At this year's Chardonnay du Monde competition, more than 300 jurors took part, with a limit of 20 samples per person. The most famous estates, which don't need to boost their sales, tend to neglect these competitions. Artisanal wineries, on the other hand, may shy away from these competitions as a matter of distinction, since the shiny stickers are associated with supermarkets. A place where it takes the place of good professional advice. A wine merchant, for example, capable of selling the uniqueness of a cuvée he has followed over the years.
Fabrice Pouillon: his champagne method
Fabrice Pouillon is the third generation to run the family domaine at Mareuil-sur-Aÿ in the Marne region of France, and he has an intrinsic respect for the heritage he has inherited: respect for the vines and for fine work. Constantly questioning himself, curious and eager to experiment, the Champenois celebrates his 26th harvest this September.
Arnaud Faye, aiming for excellence
What if we didn't talk cooking with Arnaud Faye, the Executive Chef of Le Bristol Paris, who unveiled his first creations for the Epicure restaurant in September 2024? This Meilleur ouvrier de France has agreed to think outside the box and reveal what drives him, from his first glass of vosne-romanée to his latest musical tastes and his certificate in mental preparation for professional performance.
Our partners
Food products, kitchen equipment, tableware, service solutions...
See the full list of partners who place their trust in Gault&Millau
All our partners
