Hemp from the Trévero house

Wheat, rye, small spelt, millet, buckwheat, rapeseed... the list of crops grown at Ferme de Trévero, in Sérent (Morbihan), is all the longer for the fact that, alongside these seeds, Régis Durand has opted for hemp. " Out of 75 hectares of land, 7 are devoted to its cultivation," he explains, praising the plant's many qualities, not least its "natural anti-pollutant" properties . "There's no need to use pesticides, as it doesn't fall victim to any known pests or diseases. Its tall height - up to 4 meters - prevents weeds from growing at its foot, as they are deprived of light. "Hemp also requires little water and is resistant to temperature variations. "One hectare of cultivation captures as much CO2 as one hectare of forest ," assures the farmer.

The choice of hemp makes sense in the career of Régis Durand who, before launching Ferme de Trévero, had a completely different activity. " I was a water treatment engineer. One day, I decided I'd had enough of cleaning up water contaminated by intensive livestock farming. "In 2013, he dropped everything to embark on a slow but lasting conversion. Training courses and internships followed, until he met Benjamin Frézel. " We met while working on a dairy farm in the Rennes area. As we talked, we discovered our shared aspirations and decided to go into business together. "After several years of setting up the project and looking for a location, they finally settled in Sérent, between the River Claie and the Pinieux moors. The business officially began in 2019.

Once the scene was set, Régis Durand and Benjamin Frézel were inspired to set up an ecological, peasant farm, where multiple activities complement each other. In addition to their various crops, the two partners and their five employees raise pigs (after all, we're in Brittany), cattle and chickens. "We recover the inedible parts of the crops to feed the animals," adds the farmer.

While hemp waste is ideal for livestock, its seed is also excellent for human consumption. Rich in protein, hemp is a source of fiber, vitamins B and E, magnesium and omega-3 and 6. It can be used in a variety of ways in the kitchen, notably as seeds, roasted or not, in yoghurt, on a salad, in soup, in powder form... Its subtle hazelnut taste makes it ideal for sweet preparations such as financiers, Breton cakes and tarts. Despite its many properties, 80% of Ferme de Trévero's hemp harvests are exported to Northern and Eastern European countries, where the seed is an integral part of culinary culture. In France, a few curious local restaurateurs are beginning to introduce it to their customers.

Three questions for Romain Le Cordroch, chef at Bvañ restaurant in Vannes.

How did you hear about Ferme de Trévero, and especially the hemp it produces?

Romain Le Cordroch: I'd already cooked with hemp when I worked in Paris. When I moved to Vannes, I went to the market and met Régis and Benjamin, who introduced me to their products. Their hemp seeds, hemp oil and hemp flour immediately caught my eye, as I like working with unusual ingredients, sometimes referred to as "alicaments", such as goji berry or spirulina. My aim is also to introduce my customers to unsuspected products that grow close to home.

Which hemp-derived product are you most fond of?

R. C.: It's difficult to choose. I use hemp oil to sauté vegetables, and I like to add a few roasted seeds to a plain oyster. What we call hemp flour, which is used more like almond powder, is also interesting for adding a herbaceous touch to a pastry.

Do you have any examples of how hemp is used in your restaurant?

R. C.: I like to prepare a mayonnaise that I finish with hemp oil, or a gomasio, where the sesame is replaced by hemp seeds. In season, I prepare a dish of scallops in a hemp Viennese sauce. I've also come up with a "chanvrotto", a kind of risotto where rice is mixed with hemp seeds. I encourage everyone to try it at home, if only by adding a drizzle of oil to a salad.