The renaissance of Breton wines
Although there are traces of winegrowing dating back to Gallo-Roman times, Brittany has no recent winegrowing tradition. This means it's in a position to test new grape varieties, innovate, invent, and even go in search of forgotten grapes. Great discoveries ahead.
Brittany has tasted the divine beverage since the dawn of time. At least since the Gallo-Roman era, which dates back to the 1st century AD. This is revealed by the discovery of two wine presses during excavations at Piriac-sur-Mer, on the Guerande peninsula. Throughout history, these presses have been found in abbeys all over the country, such as Landévennec, but also on farms for personal consumption. Guy Sandrenan's book La Vigne et le Vin en Bretagne (published by Locus Solus) also mentions Dol-de-Bretagne, on the edge of the marshes of Mont-Saint-Michel Bay, and the Redon, Langon, Malestroit and Dinan areas...
Until recently, the only vines to survive were those belonging to families and associations, grouped together under the ARVB (Association pour la reconnaissance des vins bretons - Association for the recognition of Breton wines). The organization, created in 2006, has given us the opportunity to taste some very fine wines, made by amateur winemakers, but not without experience. While the idea of a Breton wine has made many smile, others have dreamed of it as a utopia within reach of pruning shears. Like the vineyards of the Île-de-France region, which today enjoy official recognition thanks to the (Protected Geographical Indication), Breton wine was just waiting to rise from the ashes.
In 2016, everything accelerated with a European text on the liberalization of planting rights. From then on, vines with a new identity began to appear on the region's hillsides. Breton wine became official. In 2022, La Revue du Vin de France published a feature on "The incredible renaissance of Breton vineyards". To date, there are some thirty professional installations for marketing purposes. Every month, two or three projects are launched, as Aurélien Berthou, co-president of the Association des vignerons bretons (AVB), explains. Tomorrow, vines will bloom as far as the eye can see on the curves of the Breton landscape, for a new wine that will taste like a dream come true.
The future of Breton wines
If wines have long existed in Brittany, their taste must have differed from our current criteria. They were probably rarely fully mature, and therefore acidic and very light. They were sufficient for priestly functions and replaced water, which, as in many parts of France, was not always potable. Today, Brittany benefits from a milder climate that produces richer, less tannic wines. Valérie Bonnardot, a teacher-researcher in physical geography and the environment at the University of Rennes, keeps a close eye on this region: " If we compare the average seasonal temperatures of the recent period1991-2020 with those of1961-1990, there is adifference ofat least 1°C on average per year ."The more sunshine, the higher the temperatures, the easier it is to reach full ripeness, which is measured by the sugar content - around 170 g/l for sparkling wines and 200 g/l for white wines.
Some grape varieties, known as "précoces", reach maturity more quickly than "tardifs". Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Gamay, for example, are more precocious than southern French varieties such as Carignan or Mourvèdre. And even earlier than chardonnay, pinot meunier... Some cross-bred varieties are very interesting, such as müller-thurgau from Switzerland. Other varieties include Portuguese blue and pinot blanc, pinot gris, aligoté, gamay noir and gewurztraminer.
A virgin land with a recent winegrowing tradition, Brittany can try out new grape varieties, innovate, invent, and even go in search of forgotten grapes.
A taste of Armorique
Brittany, whose surface area is close to that of Burgundy, boasts a wide variety of soils and microclimates. The geological bedrock is predominantly silica-rich (granite, schist, sandstone), with gravel-sand-clay areas. The oceanic climate produces rather light, crisp wines: the whites are reminiscent of Chablis for their freshness, and the reds of German or Burgundian wines for their delicacy. Brittany is innovative, inventive, rich in experience and "métissages". Given the freedom of choice in grape varieties, we're not immune to making discoveries that will surprise our taste buds. Breton wines have a taste for adventure and new horizons. They have a taste for the improbable.
Domaine Les Longues Vignes, first official Breton wine
Édouard and Pauline Cazals are based in Saint-Jouan-des-Guérets, on the Rance estuary. Far from being a novice, Édouard, who holds a BTS in viticulture and oenology from Saint-Émilion, has taken his secator from New Zealand to Burgundy, via Bordeaux, with François Mitjavile and Jean-Luc Thunevin (Château Valandraud). Armed with this experience, but also with a real feel for the land, he chose a place known for having produced wine. The area has been mentioned since the 11th century, and the plot he replanted was registered in the land register as "La Cabane aux Longues Vignes". From their beautiful seafront location, the 4 hectares farmed organically have just seen the birth of their first two "Glaz" cuvées (a Breton word that defines a color between blue and green).(a Breton word for a color somewhere between blue and green), one white, the other red, both of which are ripening beautifully (2022 vintage) and retain a remarkably delicate crispness. It took five years to bring this project to fruition, with its Breton identity firmly anchored in its core.
Cuvée : Glaz : 87/100
Beautiful south-facing exposure overlooking the Rance valley, a terroir of schist and quartz, beautiful grolleau grapes in organic conversion, indigenous yeasts, a tiny level of sulfur dioxide (28 mg), infusion-style vinification... It's beautiful, caressing, silky, delicate, subtle, a little sweet on the palate, supple and light, as floral as you'd like, with a hint of pepper on the finish. Get out the checkered tablecloth for a picnic with charcuterie, quiche, chicken thighs and roast veal!
