Aube en Champagne: the new Eldorado for epicureans!
If you think of Champagne, do you think of the bubbles from the great houses of Reims or Épernay? And yet, further south, an intimate, winegrowing and gastronomic Champagne is available to gourmets with a fine nose.
Just imagine the vines on the slopes of valleys shaped by ancient rivers. Just south of Champagne, in the Aube region, nestle little-known terroirs that seduce not only for their scenery, but also for their fine palates.
The limestone soils of the Côte des Bar have more in common with Chablis or Sancerre than with the chalk of Avize, further north. On these exceptional terroirs and in a sunnier climate, Pinot Noir is right at home. Aube is a land of red grapes. These grapes are used to make "blanc de noirs" champagnes, which gourmets love. It's a gourmet trend, a far cry from the threadbare champagnes designed solely for the aperitif. Blanc de noirs are wines made for the table: vinous and structured.
Gourmet wines
Family-run champagne houses, such as Maison Drappier in Urville, help to promote this winemaking identity. Michel and his children Charline, Hugo and Antoine produce distinctive champagnes, such as the delicious Brut Nature Pinot noir sans soufre. A sapid, refined cuvée, it's an excellent gateway to discovering the distinctive character of Aube's famous Pinot Noir. Other forgotten grape varieties can be found in certain cuvées, such as fromenteau, the Champagne name for pinot gris, once very present in Aube, which makes up the cuvée Trop M'en Faut.
in Courteron, Champagne Fleury was one of the first to convert its vineyards to biodynamic viticulture in the 1990s. The family's champagnes are predominantly Pinot Noir, and are deeply flavoursome, as are their red and rosé curiosities, without bubbles. The Aube region is home to three appellations: Champagne, but also the prized Rosé des Riceys and Coteaux Champenois. a few kilometers from Troyes, the hill of Montgueux reveals a unique terroir. Champagne Hélène Beaugrand perfectly expresses the freshness and minerality of this singular vineyard.
at the table!
To discover these confidential wines at table, head to a legendary address in Troyes: Aux Crieurs de Vin, a wine shop-restaurant with 600 references, frequented by the region's winegrowers. To accompany the bubbles, a bistro-style menu on the slate includes andouillette à la ficelle from the famous Thierry charcuterie, shoulder of pork or scallop carpaccio.
a stone's throw away, the Octave restaurant also reflects the musicality of the region: gratin with andouillette and chaource, poultry or ikejime trout made in Aube. In the evening, the starter-main course-dessert menu is transformed into plates to share around a wine list that's equally local and well-informed.
Champagne celebrations
Tastings continue this spring and throughout the summer in Aube, with numerous events where champagne is king. The highlight is La Route du Champagne en fête, a weekend-long event during which champagne cellars open their doors to visitors for tastings of their champagnes.
This year's program includes concerts, exhibitions, cellar tours, tasting masterclasses and discoveries of the vineyards of the Côte des Bar... The region is just on the cusp of a great gastronomic effervescence.
olivier Douard
3 questions to Rémi MAILLIU, Marketing Manager, Aube en Champagne Attractivité
What kind of visitors come to the Aube vineyards?
Often people who have fallen under the spell of a champagne and discovered that it comes from a region they didn't know, in the very south of the appellation: Aube. This is where you can meet the winemakers. For example, you can easily visit the cellars of Maison Drappier or take part in tasting workshops at Maison Devaux, which is housed in an 18th-century manor house set in a large park on the banks of the Seine.
What are the must-haves of the Aube region's culinary heritage?
Two products that go very well with champagne: our everyday cheese, chaource, and the famous andouillette, for those who love canaille gastronomy. Thierry's charcuterie in Sainte-Savine is delicious. For those with a sweet tooth, Maison Caffet's pralines are the best I've tasted to date.
What summer event do you particularly enjoy?
For full details, visit www.fete.aube-champagne.comLa Route du Champagne en fête, without a doubt! It perfectly embodies the spirit of Aube: accessible champagne and lively villages. It's both a festive and deeply territorial event, which speaks to locals and visitors alike.
