Konstantin Filippou, the inspired opportunist

It almost looks like a blanket. He may speak pure German, be born in Graz and live in Vienna, but Konstantin Filippou is the embodiment of the Mediterranean. Curly, inky-black hair, the matte complexion of someone born in the sun, voluble, hands that don't hold still, a smile that comes spontaneously with every sentence, a sign of the life satisfaction characteristic of ancient peoples. Just look at him, just talk to him, and you're on the shores of the Aegean Sea.

But, like all Mediterraneans, the chef of the restaurant of the same name , Gault&Millau's 2016 Chef of the Year, is in fact a wielder of cosmopolitan and heterogeneous influences, which are reflected in his cuisine, his decor and his menus. Without prejudice, this 36-year-old chef picks up whatever interests him, what will feed his cooking and enliven his restaurant. And with good reason, since his career has taken him all over the world: He worked in London with Gordon Ramsay and at Le Gavroche, then in San Sebastian at the Basque restaurant Arzak, then in Vienna at an Italian establishment " where I learned the importance of knowing how to prepare quality for a large number of customers", he admits, before opening his first establishment. With a Greek father and an Austrian mother, he has developed a square and neat side: "I like things that are organized, precise and clean", he asserts.

"I'm not obsessed with locavore".

Konstantin Filippou, chef at Konstantin Filippou in Vienna

At his place, everything is impeccably tidy, thought out and ordered. No frills or fuss. The decor is simple, gray, with rough-hewn wooden tables and a perfect symmetry where the large windows in the kitchen overlooking the dining room correspond exactly to the large windows in the restaurant looking out. Nothing is left to chance, and the round, all-white plates are neatly and efficiently arranged.

But while the decor is sober, the chef is not averse to spicing up his meals with a little showmanship. The transparency of the kitchen wall lets you see everything that's going on in there, but in the dining room, cooks prepare the dishes in front of the customers on a counter. Serious as popes, which they vaguely resemble with their black chef's hat and grey apron, they serve at the table. The staging and theatrical effects are not a cover-up, they're there to emphasize his concern for perfection, almost pointillism. "You have to have the best. For products, I take the best from wherever they come from. I'm not obsessed with locavore," he insists.

If he has any doubts, hesitations or memory lapses, his reflex is always the same: call his wife.

Most of his meat and vegetables come from local farmers, including Evadach, and his cheeses come from Stefan Gruber. Logically, since we're in Austria, the seafood comes from elsewhere: langoustines and turbot, for example, from Croatia, and lobster from Brittany. But the chef also gets his asparagus and garlic from Greece, and his oranges and lemons from Kalamata, his family's home town in the southern Peloponnese. Similarly, 40% of the 400 wines in his cellar, the vast majority of which are natural wines, are French cuvées, particularly Burgundies. As well as French vintages, he says he loves the French tradition of sauces and balanced juices.

Although he emphasizes his interest in the classics as a coquetry, Konstantin Filippou is also a real trend-spotter, and one he's careful not to miss. For example, he opened an O Boufés wine bar alongside his restaurant to promote his brand, as many prestigious chefs are doing today. In his dishes, he has been quick to incorporate homemade ingredients, making his own sausages and bread. Or, as it should be today, he favors food and wine pairings, with each dish on his menu recommended by one of his three sommeliers.

All in all, he's a fan of European cuisine, with a Mediterranean flair and a real respect for the product and its integrity. As Martina Hohenlohe, editor-in-chief of the Gault&Millau Austria guide, puts it, "He's a chef who has developed his own style: high-level, creative, sophisticated". As evidenced by the details of his menu, with, for example, his sea urchin.egg.chicken.chervil or his pigeon Mieral.fougasse aux olives.céleri. nèfles or, for dessert, the combination yoghurt.dill.liquorice.plum. Dot dishes instead of slash dishes, but the idea is the same

A singular cuisine

You don't come to Konstantin Filippou to discover Austrian recipes, even if they have been revisited. His style reflects his personality and desires rather than his personal or professional origins. You shouldn't look for a change of scenery with him, but rather an encounter with a very special, singular cuisine, an experience of uncommonly high quality. And, as he's a man who likes to talk, you can easily discuss his choices and ideas with him. And if he has any doubts, hesitations or memory lapses, his reflex is always the same: call his wife. A Mediterranean man, we tell you...