Gérald Passedat: 5 Dishes
In Marseille, Gérald Passedat has created a cuisine inspired by the sea. Through five signature dishes, the chef at Le Petit Nice shares his vision of the Mediterranean coastline.
At Le Petit Nice (4 toques) in Marseille, the cuisine reflects an almost organic continuity. The restaurant, which has been owned by the Passedat family since 1917, is masterfully run by Gérald Passedat. Yet this family loyalty is by no means synonymous with stagnation… quite the contrary! While certain dishes have been on the menu since the 1980s, they continue to evolve, become more refined, and grow in sophistication. For Gault&Millau, the chef shares five signature creations that will give you a deeper insight into his culinary world.
Lucie Passedat’s Sea Bass: The Cornerstone
A signature dish on Gérald Passedat’s menu, the sea bass is also a personal tribute. Dedicated to his grandmother, who adored her grandson’s recipe, it has endured through the decades, becoming more refined without ever disappearing.“It has evolved since the ’80s. Before, it was very raw in its expression. Over time, it has gained precision and elegance,” the chef notes. This sea bass embodies a cuisine of tradition, where family memories meet technical mastery. A discreet yet essential pillar of Gérald Passedat’s cuisine.
© Richard Haughton
Abyssal Purple Lobster: The Revelation of Broths
In the 2000s, the lobster with deep-sea mallow marked a turning point in the cuisine of the chef at Le Petit Nice.“The lobster is served in a rich shellfish broth, enriched with garum, and takes on a deep blue hue thanks to the mallow, a plant I used to pick as a child with my maternal grandmother,” recalls Gérald Passedat.“Back then, people teased me a bit because they thought the dish lacked body. But for me, it was already very important to offer light, easily digestible cuisine, and broths still play a prominent role on my menu.”
© Richard Haughton
Le Jardin Marin: The Quintessence of the Coast
Le Jardin marin is an immersion in the richness of the Marseille coastline. Shellfish, crustaceans, seaweed, and sea urchins in season: a vibrant ensemble that changes with the rhythm of the catch and the day’s finds.“It’s an ode to the rocks,” the chef emphasizes. The dish relies on the work of multiple fishermen—between six and eight, depending on the catch.
© Richard Haughton
Tante Nia Sea Bream: The Art of Roasting
In this dish, the fish is treated like meat: the sea bream is grilled, its flavor intensified by the skin, then glazed with its own cooking juices—a rotisserie technique applied to seafood.“I love this dish because it showcases all my skills as a roaster, but with seafood,” explains Gérald Passedat. The sauce, made from a reduction of tomatoes, fish bones, and cooking juices, adds an almost meaty depth.“It’s a straightforward, indulgent dish that naturally invites you to mop up every last drop of sauce!”
© Richard Haughton
Milk’s Softness: The Favorite Dessert
This dessert is based on one of Gérald Passedat’s favorite ingredients: Brousse du Rove. Using this cheese, the chef created a texture he calls “souplesse de lait”—prepared without added sugar and very easy to digest.“The success of this creation lies in the subtle balance between the milk’s acidity, its creaminess, and its umami notes. The strawberries also add a lot of freshness.” The chef’s menu, which focuses primarily on seafood, “rises to the surface” with this wonderfully light dairy-based dessert.
