Orange blossom, intoxicating and adored

In Vallauris, in south-eastern France, the delicate harvesting of bitter orange blossoms usually begins in early May and lasts for a month. Today, some 50 owners hand-pick between 6 and 7 tons of the precious white blossom. It is then distilled to recover orange blossom water and essential oil, or neroli. It takes around 1 tonne of flowers to obtain 1 kg of neroli and 600 l of orange blossom water. While neroli is highly prized by perfumers, orange blossom is used in the form of water or natural aroma, which is more concentrated in flavor. Gault&Millau takes you on a voyage of discovery of this treasure and its use in patisserie. A touch of enchantment is added to every creation.

• Gourmandise Jardin de l'Atlas, Pierre Hermé, Paris

Intoxicating and reassuring, orange blossom subtly and delicately perfumes Gourmandise Jardin de l'Atlas. In a soft, éclair-shaped choux pastry, mascarpone cream distills its scents of lemon, orange, honey and orange blossom, each perfectly balanced. "The orange blossom note is very complete, very enveloping. It blends here in perfect harmony with citrus and honey. "It ' s a gourmet treat that you'll succumb to again and again! Available individually or to share.

72, rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris

www.pier reherme.com

• Orange Blossom Hazelnut Financier, Christophe Michalak, Paris

More moist, more melting, more fragrant, it just doesn't get any better than this! The financier found at Christophe Michalak's bakery is addictive. Rich in almonds and butter, it's deliciously scented with orange blossom. A touch of honey completes the texture, and a handful of Piedmont hazelnuts garnish the top. A must-try family cake, and we're giving away the recipe as a bonus!

60, rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière, 75010 Paris

www.boul angerie-michalak.com

• Strawberry, pistachio and orange blossom tart, Maison Aleph, Paris

Myriam Sabet's orange blossom is made to her own specifications, and comes from Morocco or Lebanon, depending on the harvest. Highly concentrated in flavor, it is made by artisanal distillation of the flowers with filtered water. It also contains essential oil, usually extracted for perfumers. "To bring out its intense fragrance, I use it in strawberry confit and ganache, giving the tasting experience a long finish. "We love the crispness of the filo pastry and the sweet scent of orange blossom, which combines perfectly with the almost salty notes of Iranian pistachios. A tart that heralds fine weather.

20, rue de la Verrerie, 75004 Paris

www.mais onaleph.com

• Mochi with orange blossom, Mochi Café, Juan-les-Pins

In Juan-les-Pins, mochi are made by Stéphanie and Alexandre Secci according to the rules of the art: filtered water, unrefined sugar, rice paste and, for the garnish, Label Rouge Vendée mogette beans. "We pay particular attention to making our mochi so that they have a very soft texture. For the filling, we chose to select ingredients from the region, in particular orange blossom from Jean-Noël Falcou in Vallauris, which we use to perfume our almond filling.It adds a long finish. "There are also variations with black sesame and lavender honey from Boréon, in the hinterland of Nice, and with Grasse rose and pistachio slivers.

10, rue Saint Marguerite, 06160 Juan-les-Pins

www.moch icoffee.com

• Orange blossom brioche, CinqSens, Nicolas Paciello, Paris

At CinqSens, the orange blossom brioche has become a must-try. This ultra-moist Parisian-style brioche can be enjoyed all day long. "I chose orange blossom water to subtly flavor the dough, adding a delicate touch to the delicacy of this brioche. "There ' s no need to spread it with butter or jam, the orange blossom is self-sufficient. We love it as an individual snack, or at weekends in a sharing format.

114, rue Saint-Charles, 75015 Paris

www.cinq sensparis.com

• Recipe Financier certainement pas de Wall Street, Christophe Michalak

Serves 4:

• 120 g butter
• 10 g honey
• 45 g T55 flour
• 120 g powdered sugar
• 45 g almond powder
• 1 pinch baking powder
• 4 cl orange blossom
• 3 egg whites
• 100 g roasted hazelnuts

Cook the butter in a saucepan until nutty, then strain through a fine sieve, add the honey and set aside at room temperature. Sift together powdered sugar, flour and baking powder. Gently whisk all the powders together, then gradually add the raw egg whites. Gently fold in the butter-honey mixture, followed by the orange blossom. Set aside in an airtight tin in the fridge for at least 24 hours. Line a Flexipan mold three-quarters of the way up, then sprinkle with toasted, crushed hazelnuts. Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C (gas mark 6) for approx. 12 min. until caramel-colored.