Proud Vendée strongholds
Forget about a simple rosé on your way back from the beach at Les Sables-d'Olonne, because the fiefs vendéens, vineyards of the Loire and the ocean, also offer pretty red and white wines, sometimes ambitious, but always fresh. The whites are best enjoyed young with oysters or seafood, but also after a few years in the cellar with noble meats such as sea bass or St. Pierre. Red wines are ideal for summer red meats. Our selection of five must-taste fiefs.
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Château de Rosnay (1)
White
La Villa des Blénières
2020
A fief made from a blend of chenin and chardonnay aged mainly in vats, with a powerful, deep nose of white fruit, pineapple and vanilla notes. The palate offers a round attack and good overall balance. A wine with good acidity and real openness. Open wide for a gourmet aperitif.
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Jérémie Mourat (2)
White
Clos Saint André
2020
A chenin-dominant blend for this organic white aged in an egg-shaped vat. The nose is very straightforward and pure for this young wine. You have to fetch it a little, but what finesse... You can smell the stone from the very first nose. The palate follows suit, with dimension, fullness and a superb rocky water character. The saline finish, with a hint of fresh citrus, makes you want to open it with oysters. A real favorite.
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Domaine Coirier (3)
White
La Petite Groie
2020
Parcel selection, aged for one year in barrels from the Mervent forest, right next to the estate. The terroir is located at the end of the Armorican Massif on schist soils. The nose is powerful, very aromatic, fruity with a hint of menthol. On the palate, the wine is structured and very round. Serve with firm-fleshed fish.
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Vignoble Mercier (4)
Red
Racine
2020
Lovely nose that doesn't fall into the vegetal Cabernet Franc pattern. Notes of coffee, liqueur and elderberry give it good complexity. The palate is fruity, juicy and not lacking in tannins. A fine wine with soul and substance, to be opened with BBQ meats.
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Domaine des Granges (5)
Red
Les Chalons
2020
A resolutely modern nose, with fresh fruit and, above all, a floral side that is so rarely encountered. The palate is fruity, in that modern, natural style, but well structured. Decant a few hours before serving with a nice slice of tuna.
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Follow the chenin
The king of the Loire grape varieties, also widespread in South Africa, "ch'nin", as the people of the Loire pronounce it, has the extraordinary ability to produce dry white wines as well as semi-dry, sweet, syrupy and even sparkling wines, commonly known as fines bulles. Complex and demanding, it is nonetheless endearing.
Should we trust the medals on the bottles?
On a supermarket shelf, similar-looking bottles of wine are lined up at slightly contrasting prices. Without a salesperson, in a time-constrained food shopping area, a sticker placed like a jewel cuts through the act of purchasing. Gold, silver or bronze medals flash more brightly than a label that's not always easy to decipher. Award-winning wine, featured wine An award-winning wine is one that has been presented by the winery at one of the 127 competitions that award these precious badges (in 2024, according to the DGCCRF). The famous Concours Général Agricole, founded in 1870, the world's best Chardonnay or Sauvignon competitions, the Brittany or Mâcon wine competitions, the Millésime Bio challenge... There's an embarrassment of riches to choose from, with no limit on participation, but not without a heavy hand in the wallet. For each cuvée entered, you'll need to pay between 10 and 150 euros, depending on the competition, not including postage and packaging costs and the purchase of macaroons in the event of victory. Attractive spin-offs A potentially interesting calculation, given the commercial visibility these awards bring. In the year following the award, sales of the vintage tend to increase by between 20% and 40%. A boon for the estate, event organizers and supermarkets alike. All the more so as the medals are pouring in. In 2025, at the Concours Général Agricole, of the 12129 wines entered, 3361 were awarded medals, almost half of them gold. French legislation prohibits the awarding of more than a third of the samples presented. A quota with which most competitions flirt. Amateur jury Who awards these accolades? A volunteer jury, at their own expense. Mostly amateurs. The great need for people leaves little room for rigor or traceability. In 2025, at the Concours Général Agricole, over 7,000 people were needed to taste charcuterie, cheeses, jams and wines. At this year's Chardonnay du Monde competition, more than 300 jurors took part, with a limit of 20 samples per person. The most famous estates, which don't need to boost their sales, tend to neglect these competitions. Artisanal wineries, on the other hand, may shy away from these competitions as a matter of distinction, since the shiny stickers are associated with supermarkets. A place where it takes the place of good professional advice. A wine merchant, for example, capable of selling the uniqueness of a cuvée he has followed over the years.
Fabrice Pouillon: his champagne method
Fabrice Pouillon is the third generation to run the family domaine at Mareuil-sur-Aÿ in the Marne region of France, and he has an intrinsic respect for the heritage he has inherited: respect for the vines and for fine work. Constantly questioning himself, curious and eager to experiment, the Champenois celebrates his 26th harvest this September.
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