Cazenove closes: Pierre Orsi bids farewell
A gastronomic legend bids farewell. After more than 40 years at the helm of his brasserie Cazenove, Pierre Orsi is retiring and closing the doors of his iconic establishment for good.
A key figure on Lyon's culinary scene, Pierre Orsi has marked generations with his exacting standards and his attachment to the great classics of French cuisine. After closing his Relais & Châteaux gourmet restaurant in April 2023, the 85-year-old 2-toque chef is now putting an end to his career. His restaurant Cazenove, a brasserie opened in 1979, will serve its last service on February 28, 2025, marking the end of a gastronomic era in Lyon.
A career marked by excellence
A former apprentice of Georges Bocuse, then his son Paul Bocuse, Pierre Orsi is one of those chefs who have shaped French gastronomy. Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 1972, he perfected his art in a number of prestigious establishments, including Lucas Carton and Maxim's in Paris, before returning to Lyon, where he opened his own restaurant on Place Kléber. Quickly recognized for his refinement and savoir-faire, his cuisine won over a host of celebrities, including François Mitterrand, who sat at his table. His exemplary career and exacting standards inspired a whole generation of chefs.
The end of an era for Lyon
Initially conceived as a waiting bar for customers of his gastronomic restaurant, Cazenove became a veritable institution. In an elegant setting, this cosy brasserie perpetuated the art of French service, with a menu faithful to Lyon's traditions. But the recent departure of its restaurant manager and head sommelier Patrick Desmurs heralded the end of a cycle. Following Pierre Orsi's retirement, Cazenove is preparing to close its doors for good. While the future of the place remains uncertain, one thing is certain: the chef's imprint and the Belle Époque atmosphere will remain indelible.
These news might interest you
Should we trust the medals on the bottles?
On a supermarket shelf, similar-looking bottles of wine are lined up at slightly contrasting prices. Without a salesperson, in a time-constrained food shopping area, a sticker placed like a jewel cuts through the act of purchasing. Gold, silver or bronze medals flash more brightly than a label that's not always easy to decipher. Award-winning wine, featured wine An award-winning wine is one that has been presented by the winery at one of the 127 competitions that award these precious badges (in 2024, according to the DGCCRF). The famous Concours Général Agricole, founded in 1870, the world's best Chardonnay or Sauvignon competitions, the Brittany or Mâcon wine competitions, the Millésime Bio challenge... There's an embarrassment of riches to choose from, with no limit on participation, but not without a heavy hand in the wallet. For each cuvée entered, you'll need to pay between 10 and 150 euros, depending on the competition, not including postage and packaging costs and the purchase of macaroons in the event of victory. Attractive spin-offs A potentially interesting calculation, given the commercial visibility these awards bring. In the year following the award, sales of the vintage tend to increase by between 20% and 40%. A boon for the estate, event organizers and supermarkets alike. All the more so as the medals are pouring in. In 2025, at the Concours Général Agricole, of the 12129 wines entered, 3361 were awarded medals, almost half of them gold. French legislation prohibits the awarding of more than a third of the samples presented. A quota with which most competitions flirt. Amateur jury Who awards these accolades? A volunteer jury, at their own expense. Mostly amateurs. The great need for people leaves little room for rigor or traceability. In 2025, at the Concours Général Agricole, over 7,000 people were needed to taste charcuterie, cheeses, jams and wines. At this year's Chardonnay du Monde competition, more than 300 jurors took part, with a limit of 20 samples per person. The most famous estates, which don't need to boost their sales, tend to neglect these competitions. Artisanal wineries, on the other hand, may shy away from these competitions as a matter of distinction, since the shiny stickers are associated with supermarkets. A place where it takes the place of good professional advice. A wine merchant, for example, capable of selling the uniqueness of a cuvée he has followed over the years.
Fabrice Pouillon: his champagne method
Fabrice Pouillon is the third generation to run the family domaine at Mareuil-sur-Aÿ in the Marne region of France, and he has an intrinsic respect for the heritage he has inherited: respect for the vines and for fine work. Constantly questioning himself, curious and eager to experiment, the Champenois celebrates his 26th harvest this September.
Our partners
Food products, kitchen equipment, tableware, service solutions...
See the full list of partners who place their trust in Gault&Millau
All our partners
