Fanny Rey in 5 dishes
Fanny Rey, chef at the Auberge de Saint-Rémy, talks to us about the dishes that have marked her career. A dive into the chef's world that should make you want to take a trip to Provence.
In the kitchens of Fanny Rey & Jonathan Wahid (3 toques), in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, the chef imagines a cuisine rooted in her terroir, both instinctive and precise. Inspired by nature and the rhythm of the seasons, Fanny Rey creates dishes that combine technical skill and emotion. Today, she reveals some of her emblematic dishes, those that best reflect her culinary identity and her attachment to produce.
Her proudest dish: artichoke
Artichoke marin is, without hesitation, the dish of which Fanny Rey is most proud. "Artichoke is my favorite vegetable", she confides, and she wanted to sublimate it through a unique seasoning: the seasoning dome, a signature creation that comes to life in the dining room. The birth of her first child had a profound influence on her thinking about cooking and the meaning of nourishing others. "Iodine became the backbone of our creations. Today, I season all my dishes with the sea," she explains. This approach has given rise to a series of innovations from her "magic box": after roasting and dehydrating seaweed, the chef and her team explored different techniques for extracting trace elements and mineral salts, giving rise to marine seasonings of a rare intensity.
The dish that marked a turning point in her career: zucchini flower
For Fanny Rey, the zucchini flower associated with Saint-Pierre marked a decisive turning point in her career. "A subtle interplay of nuances and textures, a tailor-made creation in which the vegetal imprint, which has now become the very essence of my thinking, is fully expressed", she explains. This dish embodies her quest for vegetable intensity, carried by a plant juice of exceptional aromatic power. "Both magnetic and dynamic, it is capable of rivaling an animal juice," emphasizes the chef. A dish that affirms her culinary identity and her vision of a cuisine in which plant-based ingredients take center stage.
A tribute to a memory: the tomato
For Fanny Rey, the tomato is much more than a simple ingredient: it's a childhood memory, an emotionally-charged Proust's madeleine. "I try to retranscribe a memory imbued with scents and flavors," she confides. For this dish, she chose the Green Zebra, a variety with a pronounced acidity and a skin ideal for stuffing. But sublimating this tomato required precise work: "We had to play with roasting, reduction and concentration, with a real reflection on associations. "His ambition? To provoke astonishment and engrave in the guest's gustatory memory an imprint as strong as that left by his mother's cooking.
The dishes most popular with customers: foraging and mussels
Two dishes in particular stand out with Fanny Rey's customers. The first, Denti, is a true aromatic exploration rooted in her Provencal terroir, sublimated by her wild harvests. The second, a more audacious creation, combines mussels, corn and caviar in an unexpected but obvious harmony. "It's a rare combination of obviousness, where the concentration of the corn brings a natural sweetness, the mussel a touch of saltiness, and the caviar a delicacy that reveals the full dimension of this creation," she explains. This dish, constructed with patience and precision, is charged with emotion and embodies both the delicacy and the power of her cuisine.
The latest creation: a dessert by Jonathan Wahid
Jonathan's latest creation is the fruit of meticulous work, in which maturation becomes an essential key, letting the textures express all their natural essence. "Over time, the sugars naturally concentrate and intensify, revealing the full depth of the flavors," explains Fanny Rey. This dish is also the reflection of a creative complicity: "The story we're both telling you is that of an unlikely meeting, of a tandem united by shared thoughts. "Together, they weave a vibrant culinary tale of bold flavors and an infinite love of taste. A seamless story that continues to unfold day after day.
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