Projo shots

3/8/23

The week in 3 parts

A tip of the hat

Ideal Marseille

There was only one step from the grocery store to the table. All it took was for Julia Sammut, a former journalist with a sharp wit, to cross the street. All she had to do was cross the street and imagine, in this rather shabby premises, the kind of friendly restaurant we love, with products - unsurprisingly - perfectly sourced and perfectly prepared. Marseille shows us its best side, all smiles. C. T.

Read the Gault&Millau review

A breath of fresh air

Table de femmes

The Chalet des Îles Daumesnil, in the heart of the Bois de Vincennes, has reinvented itself and become the Île Anaë (for the French, artisanal and organic gin of the same name). Now in the hands of the Perchoir team, it's sure to become this spring's hot spot. Especially with chef Manon Fleury (formerly of Le Mermoz, Paris 8th), curator of the premises, who will herself be running the place until the end of March, and then welcoming chefs in residence (all women, no names yet) from April onwards. Enjoy lunch together (on weekends) or dinner as a tribe (from Thursday), and discover the cuisine of local vegetable gardens. C. T.

Kick-off

A new arrival at Saint James

We were immediately won over by Julien Dumas' cuisine at the Saint James hotel's Bellefeuille restaurant. He welcomes a new pastry chef, Jeanne Lecourt. Best apprentice in France in 2018, she has worked with François Perret (Ritz Paris) and Nicolas Guercio (Lutetia, Paris), among others.cho to the chef's kitchen - a seasonal and eco-responsible pastry, desugared and plant-based, dedicated to nature. While we're waiting for our chance to taste it, find out what we thought of Le Bellefeuille when we last visited. C. T.

The race for the title of Grand de Demain is over! Gault&Millau has just named Clément Guillemot, of the restaurant Choko Ona, Grand de Demain de l'Année 2025.

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