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Copenhagen, the gastro-capital of Northern Europe

Copenhagen, the gastro-capital of Northern Europe

Sylvie Berkowicz | 10/20/24, 10:06 AM

In the space of twenty years, Copenhagen has created an ecosystem where creativity, technology, architecture and design come together to serve a new, totally uninhibited gastronomy. To the point of becoming an epicenter, a hub that attracts all eyes and even stirs all desires. To the point of becoming, in the eyes of some, the gastronomic capital of the world!

Twenty years ago, in a city that has always cultivated its love of design, but not necessarily its love of gastronomy, the idea of a Nordic cuisine asserting its identity, its terroir, emerged. Following in the footsteps of the Danish film collective Dogme95, created in 1995, a group of Scandinavian chefs, including René Redzepi, launched their manifesto in 2005. And it worked! And very well indeed. The new Nordic cuisine was born, attracting journalists, gourmet travelers and chefs-in-training. The simplicity of the early days gave way to new and varied expressions. This fertile ground gave birth to a generation of chefs, Danish and otherwise, who came to Copenhagen to train, and then often decided to stay, as the lifestyle is quite good and the environment encourages creativity. In the Danish capital, cuisine and design are never far apart. Not only in the decor of the restaurants, but also in the creative approach, in the freedom to innovate shown by the chefs who, like designers, seek out new ways of cooking, thinking about the restaurant experience and even inventing products.

A generation trained abroad

Bo Bech is far from a beginner. While he may not be the best-known chef outside Denmark, he is undoubtedly the best-known in his own country, having opened two successive gastronomic restaurants and hosted a television show.

This article is taken from Gault&Millau, le magazine #6. Find the latest issue on newsstands or in our online store.

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