Chocolate puts on a show!

The Aztecs prepared xocoalt with roasted cocoa beans, ground and infused in water perfumed with spices. A few centuries later, the magistrate and gastronome Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin attributed medicinal virtues to it. It wasn't until the 20th century that the blend was enriched with milk and cream.

Angelina was a forerunner with her "Africain", which Parisians and tourists alike flocked to taste in her tea room on rue de Rivoli. Today, every patissier and chocolatier has his or her own hot chocolate. Family recipes or more contemporary interpretations, there's something for every taste. Gault&Millau invites you to savor this creamy, comforting beverage.

• Shoukâ, in Chamonix

Established in Chamonix since 2021, the chocolate factory has a space for tasting its homemade hot chocolate, made with beans sourced and then processed on site. "For our homemade drink, we chose to use chocolate powder. These are in fact our pure-origin bars - ground from cocoa beans of different origins - cane sugar and cocoa butter. To prepare it at home, simply pour 35 g of chocolate powder into the cup and add the hot milk, stirring."

206, rue du Docteur-Paccard, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc

www.shou ka-chamonix.fr

• Ara Chocolat, Paris

Andres and Sabrina Zakhour are Venezuelans. From their country, they bring back the traditional recipe for hot chocolate, which they prepare with water. "The chocolate changes every day depending on the beans we roast in the laboratory. It can be a grand cru from Peru, Colombia or Nicaragua. Youcan taste it on the spot or buy a bag of powder for home use."The powder and water are heated together while stirring. The drink is ready just before the mixture reaches the boil. Don't miss this pocket chocolaterie, which uses no animal products.

54, rue de Dunkerque, 75009 Paris

www.arac hocolat.com

• Bernachon, in Lyon

Tradition is good. Here, hot chocolate has been served in the tearoom for thirty-five years. The recipe, unchanged, is ultra-gourmand, and the chocolate is drunk with a teaspoon. "It's a very thick, creamy, old-fashioned chocolate. It's made with whole milk, cream and Madagascar vanilla. To give it that texture and taste, it's enriched with ganache."There's no need to try a different version: hot chocolate is part of our heritage. Even if, in summer, it can be enjoyed cold or accompanied by a pot of chantilly. An absolute must!

42, cours Franklin-Roosevelt, 69006 Lyon

www.bern achon.com

• Jean-Paul Hévin, in Paris

Jean-Paul Hévin's motto:"To make a good hot chocolate, you need whole milk, a good powder and precision! We use a South American chocolate enriched with cocoa powder for length in the mouth and texture."The Meilleur ouvrier de France recommends weighing 77 g of chocolate powder for half a liter of whole milk. The preparation should be heated, stirring constantly with a whisk. As soon as it comes to the boil, remove the saucepan from the heat while still stirring, then pour into a pot. Before serving, the chocolate is"frothed" one last time by turning the whisk between the palms of your hands. You can then go to the boutique on rue Saint-Honoré to taste it, or buy the box containing the chocolate powder, the pot and the whisk. For variations, take a look at the book Chocolat chaud, by Jean-Paul Hévin, published in 2011.

108, rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

www.jean paulhevin.com

• Anne Coruble, Peninsula, Paris

Palaces are no slouches when it comes to hot chocolate, especially when prepared by a talented pastry chef."We wanted a drink with almost electric lactic notes. We use a blend of three chocolates - milk, dark and gianduja - then add whole milk and cream previously infused with Madagascar vanilla, timut pepper with grapefruit notes and chestnut honey, for fragrance. After bringing the infusion to the boil, we pour it in three batches over the chocolate mixture, stirring all the while."We're totally smitten with this ultra-smooth, citrusy chocolate.

19, avenue Kléber, 75016 Paris

www.peninsula.com