Emerging wine regions to discover

Justine Knapp | 3/25/24, 2:26 PM

Lorraine, Île-de-France, Brittany... Why are these regions growing vines again, and which wines to drink?

Rebuilding takes patience, years and hard work. Pauline and Édouard Cazals were the first to replant vines professionally in Brittany, at Saint-Jouan-des-Guérets, a stone's throw from Saint-Malo. 2022 is their first vintage. Pierric Petit's first vintage also appeared a year earlier in 2021, in eastern Paris, on the heights of Chelles, in Seine-et-Marne. Its six hectares of vines overlook the future line 16 of the Grand Paris metro.

Île-de-France, Brittany, Creuse, Lorraine, Isère: vines are coming back to life in forgotten wine-growing regions. There are many reasons for this. Firstly, planting possibilities have expanded since 2016. By European decision, a professional winegrower now has the right to plant anywhere, outside the AOC and IGP frameworks.

Secondly, climate change is shaking up the vineyard map. Rising temperatures are favoring regions where grapes had not previously reached full maturity (a "Mediterraneanization" of Brittany is predicted by the end of the century).

Finally, the cost of farmland is more affordable than in prestigious appellations (even if acquiring farmland remains difficult overall, and setting up an estate from scratch involves a major investment). When it's not the promise of the living environment that appeals. In Creuse, some new arrivals cite the lush green landscape and mild climate as their primary reason for settling.

A plant score

Why talk about a renaissance? Until the end of the 19th century, Lorraine and Isère were powerful vineyards, planted more extensively than Champagne or Burgundy. The phylloxera crisis triggered their decline. Industrialization, competition from transportation and urbanization then dealt the final blow.

These two regions have been reinvested professionally for over twenty years. Native grape varieties have regained their vigor. Auxerrois in Lorraine. Verdesse, Douce Noire and Persian in Isère: "These old grape varieties were forgotten, because they were never ripe at the time", recalls the Isère winemaker.recalls Isère winemaker Jérémy Bricka, whose vines soak up the sun on the high slopes of the Trièves region.

Île-de-France, Brittany and Creuse also share a winegrowing past. But more recent settlements have not yet led to agreement on a common score for the grape varieties grown.

"Creuse is a virgin territory in terms of winegrowing tradition, so there's everything to do," enthuses Romain Peutat, a local wine merchant since 2018. He rattles off the names of the region's five estates, most of which are awaiting harvest. His brand-new boutique will open in April, in Felletin. The first cuvées made from grapes grown in the Creuse will be on display.

5 cuvées to discover in these regions

Château de Vaux - Vignobles Molozay in Lorraine

The driving force behind the appellation and a pioneer in the revival of Moselle wines, this estate has been hard at work for over twenty years.
Maddalena 2022: An elegant, silky, well-balanced wine. Its concentration induces a certain power, with plenty of sapidity and aromatic relief from start to finish. This Muscat-like grape variety fills the mouth with raisins, crisp fresh fruit, verbena, lychee and spices.

Müller-thurgau grape variety
AOC Moselle
Demeter certified
Price: 15.50 euros

Jérémy Bricka in Isère

In 2016, Jérémy Bricka replanted hillsides in the Trièves region that had been devoid of vines for a hundred years with ancient native grape varieties.
Étraire de l'Aduï 2022: Magnificent depth of fruit (raspberry jelly, black cherry, blackcurrant leaves) in a sharp, tapering juice. The wine glides delicately over the tongue. After a sip, a delicious, salivating wave permeates the mouth. A real treat.

IGP Isère
Certified organic
Price: 25 euros

Domaine Les Longues Vignes in Brittany

Pauline and Édouard Cazals' four hectares are located on the banks of the Rance, in Saint-Jouan-des-Guérets.
Cuvée Glaz 2022: Lemon, fresh butter and a hint of menthol on the nose. The palate is comfortable, with a mellow texture that doesn't impede its fluidity of movement. The umami of this lees-aged wine brings savory depth, salivating intensely on the finish, and a sophisticated bitterness takes it even further.

Chardonnay grape variety
VDF
In conversion to organic farming
Price: 22.50 euros

Domaine des Côteaux de Montguichet, Île-de-France

Pierric Petit's plantings date from 2019, on peri-urban land leased by the Île-de-France Region.
Le Haut de la Butte 2022: A tender, fresh wine, with notes of white flowers, ripe pear and peach melba (the aromatics faded on the second day the bottle was opened). We particularly like it for its finish: the flavor slams down and a soft, pleasant salivation lingers.

Chardonnay grape variety
IGP Île-de-France
Price: 22 euros

The taste of others in Creuse

In Felletin, Antoine and Aurélie buy grapes from other winemakers while waiting for their own vines to produce.
Cuvée Egrâm 2022: This wine's acescent notes may hinder appreciation of its fruitiness (raspberry jam, warm cherry). This ripe fruit lends volume to the palate, in a framework of finesse. Tannins are coated in a fluffy texture.

Cabernet franc grapes from Domaine Grosbois, Chinon
VDF
Price: 11 euros

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