Emerging wine regions to discover
Lorraine, Île-de-France, Brittany... Why are these regions growing vines again, and which wines to drink?
Rebuilding takes patience, years and hard work. Pauline and Édouard Cazals were the first to replant vines professionally in Brittany, at Saint-Jouan-des-Guérets, a stone's throw from Saint-Malo. 2022 is their first vintage. Pierric Petit's first vintage also appeared a year earlier in 2021, in eastern Paris, on the heights of Chelles, in Seine-et-Marne. Its six hectares of vines overlook the future line 16 of the Grand Paris metro.
Île-de-France, Brittany, Creuse, Lorraine, Isère: vines are coming back to life in forgotten wine-growing regions. There are many reasons for this. Firstly, planting possibilities have expanded since 2016. By European decision, a professional winegrower now has the right to plant anywhere, outside the AOC and IGP frameworks.
Secondly, climate change is shaking up the vineyard map. Rising temperatures are favoring regions where grapes had not previously reached full maturity (a "Mediterraneanization" of Brittany is predicted by the end of the century).
Finally, the cost of farmland is more affordable than in prestigious appellations (even if acquiring farmland remains difficult overall, and setting up an estate from scratch involves a major investment). When it's not the promise of the living environment that appeals. In Creuse, some new arrivals cite the lush green landscape and mild climate as their primary reason for settling.
A plant score
Why talk about a renaissance? Until the end of the 19th century, Lorraine and Isère were powerful vineyards, planted more extensively than Champagne or Burgundy. The phylloxera crisis triggered their decline. Industrialization, competition from transportation and urbanization then dealt the final blow.
These two regions have been reinvested professionally for over twenty years. Native grape varieties have regained their vigor. Auxerrois in Lorraine. Verdesse, Douce Noire and Persian in Isère: "These old grape varieties were forgotten, because they were never ripe at the time", recalls the Isère winemaker.recalls Isère winemaker Jérémy Bricka, whose vines soak up the sun on the high slopes of the Trièves region.
Île-de-France, Brittany and Creuse also share a winegrowing past. But more recent settlements have not yet led to agreement on a common score for the grape varieties grown.
"Creuse is a virgin territory in terms of winegrowing tradition, so there's everything to do," enthuses Romain Peutat, a local wine merchant since 2018. He rattles off the names of the region's five estates, most of which are awaiting harvest. His brand-new boutique will open in April, in Felletin. The first cuvées made from grapes grown in the Creuse will be on display.
5 cuvées to discover in these regions
Château de Vaux - Vignobles Molozay in Lorraine
The driving force behind the appellation and a pioneer in the revival of Moselle wines, this estate has been hard at work for over twenty years.
Maddalena 2022: An elegant, silky, well-balanced wine. Its concentration induces a certain power, with plenty of sapidity and aromatic relief from start to finish. This Muscat-like grape variety fills the mouth with raisins, crisp fresh fruit, verbena, lychee and spices.
- Müller-thurgau grape variety
- AOC Moselle
- Demeter certified
- Price: 15.50 euros
Jérémy Bricka in Isère
In 2016, Jérémy Bricka replanted hillsides in the Trièves region that had been devoid of vines for a hundred years with ancient native grape varieties.
Étraire de l'Aduï 2022: Magnificent depth of fruit (raspberry jelly, black cherry, blackcurrant leaves) in a sharp, tapering juice. The wine glides delicately over the tongue. After a sip, a delicious, salivating wave permeates the mouth. A real treat.
- IGP Isère
- Certified organic
- Price: 25 euros
Domaine Les Longues Vignes in Brittany
Pauline and Édouard Cazals' four hectares are located on the banks of the Rance, in Saint-Jouan-des-Guérets.
Cuvée Glaz 2022: Lemon, fresh butter and a hint of menthol on the nose. The palate is comfortable, with a mellow texture that doesn't impede its fluidity of movement. The umami of this lees-aged wine brings savory depth, salivating intensely on the finish, and a sophisticated bitterness takes it even further.
- Chardonnay grape variety
- VDF
- In conversion to organic farming
- Price: 22.50 euros
Domaine des Côteaux de Montguichet, Île-de-France
Pierric Petit's plantings date from 2019, on peri-urban land leased by the Île-de-France Region.
Le Haut de la Butte 2022: A tender, fresh wine, with notes of white flowers, ripe pear and peach melba (the aromatics faded on the second day the bottle was opened). We particularly like it for its finish: the flavor slams down and a soft, pleasant salivation lingers.
- Chardonnay grape variety
- IGP Île-de-France
- Price: 22 euros
The taste of others in Creuse
In Felletin, Antoine and Aurélie buy grapes from other winemakers while waiting for their own vines to produce.
Cuvée Egrâm 2022: This wine's acescent notes may hinder appreciation of its fruitiness (raspberry jam, warm cherry). This ripe fruit lends volume to the palate, in a framework of finesse. Tannins are coated in a fluffy texture.
- Cabernet franc grapes from Domaine Grosbois, Chinon
- VDF
- Price: 11 euros
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Should we trust the medals on the bottles?
On a supermarket shelf, similar-looking bottles of wine are lined up at slightly contrasting prices. Without a salesperson, in a time-constrained food shopping area, a sticker placed like a jewel cuts through the act of purchasing. Gold, silver or bronze medals flash more brightly than a label that's not always easy to decipher. Award-winning wine, featured wine An award-winning wine is one that has been presented by the winery at one of the 127 competitions that award these precious badges (in 2024, according to the DGCCRF). The famous Concours Général Agricole, founded in 1870, the world's best Chardonnay or Sauvignon competitions, the Brittany or Mâcon wine competitions, the Millésime Bio challenge... There's an embarrassment of riches to choose from, with no limit on participation, but not without a heavy hand in the wallet. For each cuvée entered, you'll need to pay between 10 and 150 euros, depending on the competition, not including postage and packaging costs and the purchase of macaroons in the event of victory. Attractive spin-offs A potentially interesting calculation, given the commercial visibility these awards bring. In the year following the award, sales of the vintage tend to increase by between 20% and 40%. A boon for the estate, event organizers and supermarkets alike. All the more so as the medals are pouring in. In 2025, at the Concours Général Agricole, of the 12129 wines entered, 3361 were awarded medals, almost half of them gold. French legislation prohibits the awarding of more than a third of the samples presented. A quota with which most competitions flirt. Amateur jury Who awards these accolades? A volunteer jury, at their own expense. Mostly amateurs. The great need for people leaves little room for rigor or traceability. In 2025, at the Concours Général Agricole, over 7,000 people were needed to taste charcuterie, cheeses, jams and wines. At this year's Chardonnay du Monde competition, more than 300 jurors took part, with a limit of 20 samples per person. The most famous estates, which don't need to boost their sales, tend to neglect these competitions. Artisanal wineries, on the other hand, may shy away from these competitions as a matter of distinction, since the shiny stickers are associated with supermarkets. A place where it takes the place of good professional advice. A wine merchant, for example, capable of selling the uniqueness of a cuvée he has followed over the years.
Fabrice Pouillon: his champagne method
Fabrice Pouillon is the third generation to run the family domaine at Mareuil-sur-Aÿ in the Marne region of France, and he has an intrinsic respect for the heritage he has inherited: respect for the vines and for fine work. Constantly questioning himself, curious and eager to experiment, the Champenois celebrates his 26th harvest this September.
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