Forgotten grape varieties making a comeback

Three winemakers take turns to talk about a forgotten grape variety from their region that has returned to the forefront of the wine scene.

Melonà queue rouge in the Jura

Melon à queue rouge is an old, native Jura grape variety in the Chardonnay family. Philippe Chatillon, an organic and biodynamic winegrower in Poligny, cultivates vines over 65 years old.

Philippe Chatillon: I wasn't that sensitive to red-tailed melon. But when I was working at Domaine de la Pinte, before setting up my own domaine in 2013, the seeds from a parcel of Chardonnay had a peculiar taste. I tried to isolate them in a cuvée, which turned out to be spectacular. I knew afterwards that it was red-tailed melon.

After veraison, the stems and stalks of this variety turn red, and the berries are mottled as if a jar of pepper had been thrown on them. Its aromas tend towards aniseed and fennel. Compared to Chardonnay, its texture is denser, notably because the berries are smaller and more concentrated, and its aromatic richness fuller, less monolithic. I feel fully in the Jura when I drink it, where chardonnay can take us all over the world.

The real debate is that red-tailed melon is not allowed in the AOC under its true identity. On the label, it's allowed to say only chardonnay blanc or melon blanc, but I've been caught out. This seems a little absurd to me, especially as it's enjoying a resurgence, despite the low yields that led to its demise. In the 1980s, it was massively uprooted in favor of clones capable of spitting grapes. In the future,I just wonder whether its slightly earlier ripening* might be a disadvantage.

Bouysselet at Fronton

In Fronton, in the southwest of France, Domaine Plaisance Penavayre, run by Thibaut and his father Marc, was one of the first to replant bouysselet, a white grape variety native to the vineyard, in 2015.

Thibaut Penavayre: Bouysselet is Fronton's great grape of the future. It's attracting the interest of all winegrowers. What characterizes it most is its great freshness. The nose is fine and complex, and the thick skins of the grapes leave natural bitters on the palate. Nice petroleum notes even appeared in a slightly older cuvée I tasted recently .

It was a 2011 from Château La Colombière, the vintage that marked the grape variety's return to the region. A single vine had persisted in the garden of an old Villaudric family. Bouysselet's oblivion after the 1970s was perhaps due to the rise of reds in the appellation. And its very lateripening* may not have allowed it to reach full maturity at the time, which is clearly an advantage today. It has little fear of frost, and seems to be resistant to mildew and extreme heat. In the cellar, it lends itself to a wide range of vinifications: dry, sweet, sparkling or oxidative wines.

Last year, 10 hectares were planted. A further 10 hectares have been planted for 2023. Within the Fronton syndicate, we are currently drafting the specifications for the creation of an AOC. What's on the agenda? A 100% bouysselet, aged for a long time .

Verdesse in Isère

Nicolas Gonin, a winemaker in Isère, is also vice-president of the Centre d'ampélographie alpine Pierre Galet, committed to the restoration of forgotten native grape varieties, of which verdesse is one.

Nicolas Gonin: Verdesse belongs to the large family of descendants of Savagnin - which can sometimes be seen as oxidative. Harvested when ripe, it reveals notes of muscat or lychee, while retaining good acidity thanks to our climate .

This grape variety has been grown in Isère for at least several centuries, but the phylloxera epidemic at the end of the 19th century decimated most of the vines. Recently, I discovered that Verdesse was also planted in a commune in the Bugey region, as well as in Italy, according to the 1958 vineyard register held by the Musée de la Vigne et du Vin in Montmélian.

Back home, in the Balmes dauphinoises in northern Isère, I noticed that the early-ripening* Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay grapes planted at the time were ripening too quickly, losing their acidity, their nose and their ageing potential. Some twenty years ago, I tore out all the vines and gradually replanted them with heritage varieties (Verdesse, Altesse, Persian, Mècle...), while working to create the Isère PGI and the specifications that could accommodate them. It was also about bringing tradition back to Isère. The potential is vast, but I'm still a long way from cultivating the 35 grape varieties that make up its ampelographic identity.

Late or early variety: what are we talking about?

Early variety: a variety that ripens early. The grape's ripening cycle is a short one. This means less exposure to pests and bad weather. On the other hand,its buds are already open in spring, so frost is a threat, and an excessively hot climate mistreats grapes that are already ripe and fragile in summer.

Tardive variety: late ripening variety. Grapes need a long time to ripen. These varieties may not reach maturity before winter in some regions. They are more likely to tolerate heat, intensified by climate change, while preserving acidity and low alcohol content.