Centerpieces: the finishing touch for unforgettable meals

It's an irresistible eye-catcher, a promise of elegance and conviviality. The centerpiece is much more than a simple ornament, it's a setting designed to sublimate the moment. An object of fascination since Antiquity, it has survived the centuries, evolving with tastes and fashions, without ever losing its aura, even if it has sometimes given way to the simplicity of modern tables. Today, it often fades into the shadows of informal meals, but remains a must on grand tables where elegance is the order of the day.

From antique banquets to modern receptions

Who would have thought that the centerpiece - also known as the "surtout de table" - once the king of banquets and butlered dinners, would make a comeback worthy of a Hollywood star? Born of the splendor of the 17th and 18th centuries, it reigned supreme over French-style feasts. in those days, the table was not just a place to eat, but a veritable stage on which every dish, every server and, above all, the centerpiece played its part to perfection.

But mind you, we're not talking about three tulips and a wobbly candlestick. No. back then, the centerpiece was a veritable decorative arsenal: salt shakers, oil shakers, spice boxes and sometimes even candlesticks, all organized with almost military precision.

Alas, like all great stars, it was eventually eclipsed. By the second half of the 19th century, "Russian-style" service had taken over: fewer dishes on the table, more room to breathe, and instead a more streamlined aesthetic. Gone were the "surtouts" and other extravagances: the table was stripped bare, and the centerpiece, deemed too cumbersome and formal, disappeared into the shadows of the following century. By the twentieth century, they were a distant memory, relegated to family histories or Christie's auctions.

On festive tables and chefs' tables

On everyday tables, let's face it, the centerpiece has become an endangered species. Practicality reigns supreme, dishes claim their own vital space, and the eternal bread basket ends up playing the role of centerpiece. But as soon as you move on to a reception worthy of the name, or venture into a restaurant where the chef has the ambitions of a stage director, the centerpiece regains all its superbness. These new magicians of the art of entertaining transform it into a centerpiece that dialogues with their creations.

Some chefs surround themselves with craftsmen and designers to reinvent this once-forgotten object. Forget the silver trays and glass bowls of yesteryear: today, make way for works of art. in Paris, at Plénitude, Arnaud Donckele sublimates his table with the delicate creations of ceramist Virginie Boudsocq, an ode to nature that perfectly matches his culinary universe. at La Grand'Vigne, in Martillac, Nicolas Masse collaborates with Margaux Leycuras, a ceramist from Bordeaux, to design porcelain staves that roll out appetizers and desserts throughout dinner. " Placed in the center of the table, this porcelain piece makes the link with the vine ," explains the chef, in a nod to his terroir.

Others dare to be spectacular, even a little provocative. Ceramist Valérie Delarue, for example, presents a Massacre de cochonnaille, a still life exhibited at the La Piscine museum in Roubaix. Each centerpiece becomes an extension of the meal, an object that intrigues, catches the eye and sometimes even invites reflection.

The art of choosing and arranging a centerpiece

As Jérémy Côme, nicknamed "Monsieur Bonnes Manières" and author of the guide L'art de maîtriser les codes, reminds us: " A table isn't a table if it doesn't have cloth napkins and a centerpiece. "But beware: a centerpiece can't be improvised. There are subtle rules to follow, or you risk sabotaging the atmosphere... or putting your guests in a delicate position with their spines.

• First point: the choice. It must reflect your personality, while harmonizing with the style of your decor. Whether you opt for a minimalist arrangement, a flamboyant composition or a sculptural piece, the key is to maintain a certain consistency. avoid, for example, an XXL vase if you're having dinner for four on a small round table: the effect would be more awkward than elegant.
• Next, the height. Here, there's no room for compromise. A good centerpiece should be low enough to allow guests to see each other without contorting their bodies, but not so flat as to go unnoticed. It's all a question of balance.
• Finally, don't forget that your guests have come to share a moment, not to circumvent a decorative obstacle. A table should remain fluid and accessible. If your centerpiece takes up too much space, no matter how magnificent, it will quickly become a source of annoyance when it has to be moved to pass the dishes.

But if, despite everything, you succumb to a slightly more imposing piece, compensate with a brilliant conversation piece. After all, isn't that the real key to a successful dinner party?