Behind every piece of skrei: the story of sustainable fishing and the men and women who preserve this tradition

Publirédactionnel | 3/17/25, 12:41 PM

Every winter, Norway and its fishermen celebrate the return of the skrei, a unique migratory cod. Behind its tasty flesh lies an ancestral fishing tradition, rooted in Norwegian culture and driven by values of sustainability.

Every winter, between January and April, a miracle of nature takes place in the icy waters of the Barents Sea. The skrei, an exceptional migratory cod, returns to Norwegian shores after a long journey. But behind this firm, juicy flesh, prized by chefs the world over, lies a story of tradition, sustainability and the men and women who perpetuate ancestral know-how.

An athlete of the seas

Skrei is not your average cod. Unlike sedentary cod, which are content to feed without moving too much, skrei travel thousands of kilometers from the Barents Sea to the Lofoten Islands to spawn. This intensive migration muscles the flesh, giving it a firm texture and refined flavor. "They are the super-athletes of the seas," explains Bjørn-Erik Stabell, Head of Strategy and Sustainability at Norwegian Seafood. "Their long journey transforms their flesh, making them a unique gastronomic experience. "

A fishery rooted in Norwegian culture

Skrei fishing is much more than just an economic activity in Norway; it's part of the country's cultural heritage. For generations, fishing families have passed on their knowledge and techniques. "It's in our DNA," confides Bjørn-Erik Stabell. "Like wine in France, the sea is essential to our survival and identity. "

Once dominated by men, today more and more young women are joining the crews, despite the sometimes extreme conditions. Fishermen set off at dawn, facing rough seas and freezing temperatures. "It's a demanding way of life," says Bjørn-Erik Stabell. "It's a job that can sometimes be dangerous. You have to be focused all the time to limit the risks. But it's also a very rewarding job. "

A sustainable fishing model

Sustainability is at the heart of skrei fishing. To preserve this resource for future generations, Norway imposes strict quotas and closely monitors fishing. "Sustainable fishing means exploiting resources without compromising the future," stresses Bjørn-Erik Stabell.

Small fishing boats are favored in this sector, enabling better control of catches and greater compliance with environmental regulations. What's more, local communities depend on this fishery, which encourages them to adopt responsible practices. To guarantee the authenticity and sustainability of skrei, each fish bearing the Norwegian quality label is carefully traced. The only downside, for the moment, could be the increase in water temperature due to global warming. "Eventually, this could upset the balance of the ecosystem, attracting species such as mackerel that could threaten the young cod," warns the manager, adding that, for the moment, the consequences are very limited.

A challenge for the future

If skrei fishing is an example of responsible management, it must continually adapt to climatic challenges and market pressures. Growing demand means finding a balance between production and preservation of resources. "We need to increase production to feed more people, but every increase has an impact," says Bjørn-Erik Stabell. Innovations in fishing and transport methods are underway to further reduce the industry's carbon footprint.

So, behind every portion of skrei tasted lies a fascinating story, that of an exceptional fish and the men and women who, over the generations, ensure the preservation of a fragile balance between tradition and a sustainable future.

These news might interest you

Food & Health

How can technological innovations be used to create gourmet dishes?

Read

Food & Health

"Invited to take part in the world cassoulet championship, chefs Timothée Deguingand and Nicolas Ferrand from the Pampa restaurant in Lyon's Pullman hotel foundthemselves competing against three teams from Toulouse and one from the Tarn region. And they won! On January 20, 2025, the competitors faced off at the 9ᵉ edition of the competition, at the Rex, in Toulouse. During this evening organized by Les Chevaliers du Fiel, the chefs had to offer their cassoulet to 150 people. The two Lyon-based chefs competed against Toulouse-based establishments La Maison du Cassoulet, Le Bibent and Maison Pardailhé, and Cuq en Terrasses, in the Tarn region. It wasn't a foregone conclusion. Timothée Deguingand, executive chef at Pullman Lyon since its opening, and Nicolas Ferrand, head of banqueting, offer their restaurant's menu the fruit of a Franco-South American fusion. "But the restaurant world is a small one! The manager of our hotel used to work in Toulouse, so some people told him that a candidate had withdrawn for the world cassoulet championship, and that's how we got there!" says Nicolas Ferrand. A traditional recipe For this competition, the candidates had to propose a traditional cassoulet. The two chefs took their inspiration from Prosper Montagné's 1929 recipe. "We interpreted it while respecting tradition," explains Timothée Deguingand. A lot of research and testing went into the final version. The head of banqueting explains: "We changed the broth three times to finally make a mix between vegetable and animal" A cassole was also lent by the organization, "It's very important to use this glazed terracotta dish." The importance of breaking the crust According to the chefs, the most important step in the recipe is the gratin. The cassoulet must be baked several times: "We bake it once, break the crust and bake it seven more times". Nicolas Ferrand explains the previous steps: "The cassoulet is assembled with all the meats in layers: a layer of beans, then beans mixed with rind, pork shoulder, shank, pork belly, Toulouse sausage and duck confit." For the competition, the two Lyonnais didn't have access to on-site kitchens. So they vacuum-packed their preparations. "A handicap turned into a strength", smile the chefs. during cooking, the white beans absorb the broth and fat from the duck confit, rind and sausage. It's this alchemy that gives cassoulet just the right amount of fat and flavor. Nicolas Ferrand explains: "All traditional stews that require a lot of cooking are even better when cooled and reheated. There's a new exchange of flavors that creates an osmosis". Today, the two cooks offer "la cassole pampa" on the menu of their restaurant. "A revisited version of the cassoulet with South American flavors, with rind, a tangy, spicy chicken broth that spices up the Tarbais beans, and chicharrón, pork belly marinated in spices and fried. With coriander and red onion. It's crunchy and comforting!" enthuses Timothée Deguingand.

Read

Food & Health

Forgotten fish: an underestimated treasure for our plates and our oceans

Christopher Coutanceau, chef-fisherman in La Rochelle, explains why we should abandon salmon and cod for "less noble" species such as horse mackerel and sardines.

Read

Food & Health

Chandeleur: 10 chefs' spreads to try out

With Chandeleur just around the corner, chefs are invading the world of spreads with unique creations in a variety of flavors. Discover a gourmet selection to enhance your crêpes.

Read