Bernard Loubat, the culinary critic from Marseilles, has passed away
Marseille-based food critic Bernard Loubat passed away at the age of 83, on the night of March 15, 2025. A brilliant career that left its mark on local and national gastronomy.
Bernard Loubat passed away on Friday evening, at the age of 83, in the privacy of his family. His wife Michèle announced the sad news to his family and the gastronomic community.
The man who started out as a journalist in the 70s left his mark on the culinary scene. From his columns on France Inter to his role as regional director for Gault&Millau, Bernard Loubat devoted his life to gastronomy. But it's in Marseille that his name resonates particularly strongly. With his in-depth analyses and his love of Provençal cuisine, he introduced the world to the flavors of the city of Marseille. Bernard Loubat knew how to pass on his knowledge and passion with a rare generosity, whether recounting the history of bouillabaisse or evoking the richness of local specialties.
Marc Esquerré, director of Gault&Millau surveys, expressed his sadness in these words: " The Gault&Millau family is deeply saddened. We learned this morning of the death of Bernard Loubat, the best of the best, and our friend. The man I affectionately called "my prince" was one of those who welcomed me most warmly in the late 90s. His curiosity, his benevolence, his enthusiasm, drove him to discovery, seeing everything new as beneficial. He represented everything we stand for, with the human touch and personality at the heart of every story. In his long career as a journalist, Bernard counted only friends. From Marseille, his home town, and from all over Provence, Bernard continued, despite his illness, to send us the fruit of his visits, the sharpest, best informed and best written there are, in his lively, colorful and unique style. His exacting standards, humor and elegance will continue to guide us."
gault&Millau extends its sincere condolences to his wife Michèle.
His funeral will be held on Friday March 21st at 2pm at the Saint-Pierre cemetery in Marseille.
These news might interest you
Should we trust the medals on the bottles?
On a supermarket shelf, similar-looking bottles of wine are lined up at slightly contrasting prices. Without a salesperson, in a time-constrained food shopping area, a sticker placed like a jewel cuts through the act of purchasing. Gold, silver or bronze medals flash more brightly than a label that's not always easy to decipher. Award-winning wine, featured wine An award-winning wine is one that has been presented by the winery at one of the 127 competitions that award these precious badges (in 2024, according to the DGCCRF). The famous Concours Général Agricole, founded in 1870, the world's best Chardonnay or Sauvignon competitions, the Brittany or Mâcon wine competitions, the Millésime Bio challenge... There's an embarrassment of riches to choose from, with no limit on participation, but not without a heavy hand in the wallet. For each cuvée entered, you'll need to pay between 10 and 150 euros, depending on the competition, not including postage and packaging costs and the purchase of macaroons in the event of victory. Attractive spin-offs A potentially interesting calculation, given the commercial visibility these awards bring. In the year following the award, sales of the vintage tend to increase by between 20% and 40%. A boon for the estate, event organizers and supermarkets alike. All the more so as the medals are pouring in. In 2025, at the Concours Général Agricole, of the 12129 wines entered, 3361 were awarded medals, almost half of them gold. French legislation prohibits the awarding of more than a third of the samples presented. A quota with which most competitions flirt. Amateur jury Who awards these accolades? A volunteer jury, at their own expense. Mostly amateurs. The great need for people leaves little room for rigor or traceability. In 2025, at the Concours Général Agricole, over 7,000 people were needed to taste charcuterie, cheeses, jams and wines. At this year's Chardonnay du Monde competition, more than 300 jurors took part, with a limit of 20 samples per person. The most famous estates, which don't need to boost their sales, tend to neglect these competitions. Artisanal wineries, on the other hand, may shy away from these competitions as a matter of distinction, since the shiny stickers are associated with supermarkets. A place where it takes the place of good professional advice. A wine merchant, for example, capable of selling the uniqueness of a cuvée he has followed over the years.Our partners
Food products, kitchen equipment, tableware, service solutions...
See the full list of partners who place their trust in Gault&Millau
All our partners
