5 places to dine on the water

Dockside or directly on the water... This summer, dining out takes on a nautical air.

Bérangère Chanel Published on 9/14/24 at 10:05 AM

A gourmet restaurant that evokes the world of the sea. A café 100 meters from the Erdre lock and a final project directly on the banks of the famous Loire tributary. " The link with water is obvious," says Mathieu Pérou. Even if he admits that the proximity of his establishments to the liquid element is fortuitous, the young chef from Manoir de la Régate (3 toques), in Nantes, recognizes that it is a source of inspiration. " I'd probably cook differently if I worked by the sea," he concedes. From the banks of the Loire to the Mediterranean by way of the Seine, summer is lived by the water.

With climate change, people are looking for coolness. But that's not all. It's simple: we're happy at the water's edge. And it's not Jean Gabin who would say otherwise, not even science! In 2019, a serious British study published in the journal Health and Place indicated that living near the coast improved mental health. Imagine if, on top of that, you could dine there! So, happiness is guaranteed with these five addresses.

In Paris, the Bateau Phare

Don't call it Batofar anymore. The famous floating electronic club that livened up many a Parisian night on the quays of the Seine near the Port de la Gare (13th arrondissement) is back in service after six years of renovation. This is the Bateau Phare, which now lights up every convivial moment of the day. While the quayside terrace is still used for impromptu lunches, people come aboard for different reasons. While clubbers find a brand-new parquet floor in the Cale, the atmosphere is more subdued in the Carré, a brand-new space designed in the spirit of a lounge bar. Here, tapas are grilled and cocktails are sipped, like this "green hand" served with a watering can. This is also the place to go for Sunday brunch, overlooking the Seine. In all, the new Bateau Phare offers four styles of atmosphere, staged by the FAAR studio (you can't make that up!).

Where? 3 Port de la gare, Quai François Mauriac face 11, 75013 Paris
www.lebateauphare.paris

Degaby Island in Marseille

This is a first for the city of Marseille, and one that will undoubtedly leave those who have tried to swim to the famous Degaby Island in dismay. Usually, they have to make do with a corner of rock to settle on. But now they have the opportunity to cross the ramparts of the military fortress... to eat! Until mid-October, this natural bastion in the Marseilles harbor will be the setting for a daring project: to offer sustainable cuisine. We're not just talking about environmentally-friendly gastronomy, but also logistics designed to minimize our carbon footprint. The restaurant is solar-powered, while chef Sébastien Dugast cooks by the flame. This former chef from Gérald Passedat 's Petit Nice (4 toques) has teamed up with his sidekick Romain Nicoli, whom he met in the Mediterranean lair of the Marseilles toque.en of the Marseilles chef, to set up (or rather, on the water) this crazy project, orchestrated by the managers of Ile Degaby, Sofia and Boris Lefevre. Boat trips from the Mucem quays are organized to reach the restaurant (15 min, 20 euros return, by reservation).

Where to find us Île Degaby, 13000 Marseille
https://iledegaby.com/

In Nice, Le Plongeoir

There's another rock in the Mediterranean Sea where you can dine facing the sunset. The address is legendary, and every summer it becomes a must-see spot. A little over six meters above the water, you can sip a house cocktail while discovering a menu resolutely dedicated to Provencal and Mediterranean produce, created by chef Loïc Buisson. Bass fillet is roasted and served with artichokes à la barigoule. Sea bream is prepared as ceviche, with a tangy citrus marinade. Zucchini flowers are served in fritters with crushed tomatoes and basil. In the 19th century, this wasn't a diving board where people gathered to have a good time around a table. It was... a boat, literally perched on the rock, linked by a footbridge to this kiosk now transformed into an aerial or floating restaurant - depending on the point of view.

Where? 60 Boulevard Franck Pilatte, 06300 Nice
www.leplongeoir.com

In Nantes, the Bateau-Lavoir

A fixture on the banks of the River Erdre, this Nantes institution for student outings has undergone a facelift not only on the floor, but also on the plate. At the helm is Mathieu Pérou, chef of the Manoir de la Régate (3 toques): "It's a truly inspiring place. At the end of the meeting during which I was presented with the project, I knew I was going to say yes. The menu was already built in my mind," confided the chef. Since last April, the Bateau-Lavoir has been a hybrid place where good food is now the common denominator for all those who come on board for a good time. Tetsuya Wakuda's ex-apprentice has developed a culinary proposal based on local produce, in a street-food style, with a highly polished version. " I'm interested in any project as long as I don't betray my convictions," assures Mathieu Pérou. On the menu: Loire catfish hot dog, pork loin katsusando, Loire fish fish and chips... Prices don't exceed 13.50 euros, while the homemade potatoes come with a special seasoning.accompanied by a singularly regressive seasoning, based on Nantes bacon powder, smoked paprika, crispy onions, parsley and cheese sauce. " Rather than accessible street-food, I'd sum up the offer as that of an improved guinguette where I cook well-sourced products not found in my gourmet restaurant," sums up the young chef from the Loire Valley.

Where to eat? Quai Ceineray, 44000 Nantes
www.bateau-lavoir.fr

In Mandelieu, Canua Island

The project is crazy. It's also out of the ordinary. Imagine: 1,750 m² on the water. 350 people take possession of this floating island offering a 360° view of the entire Mediterranean. On board: a freshwater swimming pool, a bar-lounge and a restaurant. And famous chef Thibaut Sombardier is at the helm. The toque, who transforms everything he prepares in the kitchen into nuggets, has collaborated with Canua Island to sculpt its restaurant offering. The well-known Top Chef finalist said yes, because this is the region he loves best. The challenge logically appealed to him, as did the opportunity to prepare a cuisine without fuss. The Mediterranean terroir is inevitably on board. Red tuna sashimi is seasoned with tonnato sauce. Bass fillet is cooked with herbs and lobster is seared a la plancha. The chef has not forgotten his basics, with a chocolate mousse served by the ladle, topped with roasted hazelnuts and a dairy caramel.