48 hours around Corte

A mountain town between north and south, a crossroads of cultures and histories, Corte is still home to no fewer than 5,000 students. In other words, the soul of Corsica is right here, on the edge of the Restonica and Tavignano valleys, dominated by the Popolasca peaks. A soul that we try to capture, almost on the fly. From the citadel, of course, with its eagle's nest tower that seems to reach into the void, and the Museu di a Corsica, with its rich collections. From the Place Paoli, with the National Palace, the Church of the Annunciation and General Gaffory's house, riddled with bullets fired by the Genoese. And as soon as you take to the road, you're off to discover these mountains as mysterious as they are bewitching. Gorges de la Restonica In season, hundreds of hikers take to the gorges, winding their way up the valley towards the Melo and Capitello lakes. Here, the river is as playful as a torrent, offering charming stops for picnics (inevitably gourmet) or a swim (even in midsummer, the water is cool). Drive to the Grotelle sheepfolds (about 15 km from Corte), a veritable institution, a stopover on the famous GR20 and the gateway to Lac de Melo, lined with columbines, alders and junipers, in an ocean of serenity. The site has been listed since 1966. The villages When you get back in the car, take a turn, get lost, don't hesitate, even if the road seems very narrow; one twist, another, up, down, get lost again... Silvareccio and its old bell tower, Casalta and its houses pressed against each other above the void; Piedicroce, close to the sources of Orezza, the village-balcony where Pascal Paoli met Napoleon, with its church of Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul with its Baroque façade; La Portan with yet another church, Saint-Jean-Baptiste, this time with a bell tower; the heart of Castagniccia, Ficaja, which emerges from the scrubland as if by magic, Quercitello... The road to take, the Bozio The Bozio is an unknown marvel in the south of Castagniccia, a parade of beauty, these gradations of green in which, at the chance of a bend, you discover a pale spot standing out from the maquis, a secret village in which, here again, the Corsican soul floats. From Corte, drive to Castellare-di-Mercurio, then Sermano. Along the way, you'll enjoy a truly unique panorama, with vertiginous views and, further on, the mountain circle that is said to take you as far as China... Sermano, where you can listen to paghjella, a religious a capella song sung by three male voices. Then on to Bustanico, with its beautiful lauze-roofed houses, church and polychrome Christ. Head south to Mazzola, then Pianello. Who's ever heard of Pianello, a village of quiet charm? Continue on to Matra, in unspoilt countryside, then on to Moïta and its incredible old bell tower that seems to be held up by divine grace. Then, via Tox, you reach the Bravone valley. And catch your breath. Gorges de la Restonica In season, hundreds of hikers happily take to the gorges, winding their way up the valley to lakes Melo and Capitello. Here, the river is as playful as a torrent, offering charming stops for picnics (inevitably gourmet) or swimming (even in midsummer, the water is cool). Drive to the Grotelle sheepfolds (about 15 km from Corte), a veritable institution, a stage on the famous GR20 and the gateway to Lac de Melo, lined with columbines, alders and junipers, in an ocean of serenity. The site has been listed since 1966. The villages When you get back in the car, take a turn, get lost, don't hesitate even if the road seems quite narrow, one twist, another, up, down, get lost again... Silvareccio and its old bell tower, Casalta and its houses pressed against each other above the void; Piedicroce, close to the sources of Orezza, the village-balcony where Pascal Paoli met Napoleon, with its church of Saint-Pierre and Saint-Paul with its Baroque façade, La Portan with yet another church, Saint-Jean Baptiste, this time with a bell tower, the heart of Castagniccia, Ficaja, which emerges from the maquis as if by magic, Quercitello... The road to take, the Bozio The Bozio is an unknown marvel in the south of Castagniccia, a parade of beauty, these gradations of green in which, at the chance of a bend, you discover a pale spot standing out from the maquis, a secret village in which the Corsican soul still floats. From Corte, drive to Castellare di Mercurio and then Sermano. Along the way, you'll enjoy a truly unique panorama, a vertiginous viewpoint and, further on, the mountain circle that is said to take you as far as China... Sermano, where you can listen to paghjella, a religious a capella song sung by three male voices. Then on to Bustanico, with its beautiful lauze-roofed houses, church and polychrome Christ. Head south to Mazzola, then Pianello. Who's ever heard of Pianello, a village of quiet charm? Continue on to Matra, in unspoilt countryside, then on to Moïta and its incredible old bell tower that seems to be held up by divine grace. Then, via Tox, you reach the Bravone valley. And catch your breath.