Restaurant Frédéric Doucet

71120 CHAROLLES

16.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

15 PHOTOS

Chef Frédéric Doucet

Cooking French | Gastronomic | specialty

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

65€ à 165€

Gault&Millau's review

16.5/20

Remarkable Restaurant Every year, this family home becomes more and more one of the great Burgundy landmarks of the past half-century. Frédéric Doucet has brought it up to date with an energy and commitment that do him great credit. Focusing on local produce and controlled provenance, he uses permaculture to grow some of his own vegetables, calls on the services of a Charolais breeder 5 km away, and offers genuine seasonal dishes without depriving himself of certain essentials, such as lobster from Brittany. In my father's day, we'd all come for a thick, well-cooked entrecôte. Today, the chef continues to give pride of place to beef, reinventing his preparations, some of which are beautifully staged (guéridon smoking as an amuse-bouche with Fallot mustard ice cream, tendron in broth and chips, celery and nasturtium). After Crisenon trout confit with a pleasant scent of verbena (leaves, emulsion), pike-perch, like a lightly crusted cake, is accompanied by a delightful crocus pistils broth and black garlic emulsion. We come back to the beef with a beautiful plate featuring a well-concentrated beef jus with all the herbs of its diet, including marrow and a delicious satellite mousseline purée. Also worth mentioning is the magnificent cart of cheeses, mainly from the region, including Franche-Comté, and a well-polished dessert on the theme of Flavigny aniseed. A very well-run room with a close-knit team, where the managers allow the younger staff to express themselves. A great classic cellar, very extensive in Burgundy, with big names (D'Auvenay, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Coche-Dury...) and established owners (Bertagna, Arlaud...). While the selection by the glass is meager, the choice of half-bottles is extensive and the best idea if you're planning two or three glasses for a meal.