Pur' - Jean-François Rouquette - Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme

75002 PARIS

17.5/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

12 PHOTOS

Chef Jean-François Rouquette

Cooking French | Gastronomic | specialty

Services Accomodation | For people with disabilities | Private parking | Valet parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

220€ à 490€

Gault&Millau's review

17.5/20

Prestige Restaurant It's a cuisine of journeys, where we move from one sun to another, from Brittany to Provence, from Auvergne to Gironde, with a fresh eye and an experienced hand, ready to play familiar notes whose score has yet to be written. This is why the pretty rotunda of the Park Hyatt suits Jean-François Rouquette so well, with a style that is classically inspired but definitely contemporary, that touches on familiar codes as much as it offers a setting open to modernity. With the faithful assistance of Ai Okabayashi, whose influence still hovers over the plates, the chef expresses his country according to a sensibility well gathered from his palace experiences, notably through exceptional products, meticulously chosen and named: vegetables from Bruno Cayron, seafood from Sylvain Huchette, caviar from Moulin de la Cassadote, or cheeses from Marie Quatrehomme. From there, we move on to heritage dishes, such as abalone from the open sea gilded in seaweed butter and artichokes poivrade au vadouvan, coastal and intense, garden tomatoes like a bloody mary with sun-dried tomatoes, osciètre caviar and tomato heart with fig tree oil, which perfectly capture the spirit of the cocktail, between freshness, spice and acidity, in presentations declined as in Japan. We continue with a very fine red mullet à feu vif, polenta cooked in a rock fish broth, saffron mimosa and chard, and finally a real sweetbread with barberry, sautéed chanterelles, liquorice powder, new carrot and tetragona shoots. For desserts, multi-talented pastry chef Naraé Kim, who also worked for Alléno, brings a breath of fresh air to the table with her beautiful fruit desserts, including semi-confit apricot with honey from Provence, lemon thyme sorbet and black olive powder, and white peach poached in rooibos tea with rosé champagne granita, peach paper, Greek yogurt and fresh almond. In the glass, grands crus from all regions and selections that don't hesitate to look across the border.