Alexandre Baumard's strong start in his new haunt was no flash in the pan, nor was it a surprise. The Gabriel's excellent chef, in a place of his own from now on, achieves great things, and this opening sounded a bit like a revival in the city. This year, he logically confirms his three toques, with a cuisine that is often brilliant, and gently priced at lunchtime with a market menu at €34. In the evening, you can let your hair down with the fine à la carte menu or the "La vie est une fête" menu at €115: red tuna as a charcuterie with asparagus and hollandaise, sea bass with artichoke and caviar, seaweed and pea st. Pierre, beef with foie gras sauce Périgueux. The basics are classic, but this superb tour of a tradition brought to life by a technically adept chef is a delight. Rhubarb (almond, orange blossom) and chocolate (vanilla, mucilage...) are of the same high quality. A well-proportioned cellar, with no weaknesses, at fair prices.