Madness" in the vineyards

Set amidst the vineyards of Saint-Émilion, this "folie" of the last century was a sleeping beauty in need of a serious boost. Long gone are the days when it was all the rage thanks to a young troublemaker in the kitchen - Philippe Etchebest took up his first post as chef de cuisine in 1995 and stayed for five years. The Guillard family, owners since 2019, have just revived the walls with the help of architect Jean-Philippe Nuel. It took seven months of work to restore the Château-Hôtel Grand Barrail's lustre and identity, and give it back all its panache.

From the outside, nothing has changed - with the exception of a discreet marquee. The astonishing facade of the building, where not a single window is identical, is still hidden by an unfortunate extension imagined by former owners. It is through this building that you enter the château's "antechamber". The reception area, now bathed in natural light, looks more like a salon than a lobby. Bacchus seems to have been here: (fake) wine stains cover the ceiling. So where is he? Undoubtedly in the château, a few steps further on, at the end of this covered passageway refurbished as a "winter garden"...

Jean-Philippe Nuel's inspiration here is oriental. His chromatic palette matches that of the Salle Mauresque, an exotic jewel in the style of yesteryear, where breakfast is served today. This curiosity gives rise to many opinions. Some say it was the whim of René Bouchart, a brewing and malting industrialist who had the château built in 1902. Others, that of its architect, Louis-Marie Cordonnier, who designed the Lille Opera House. No matter today. The house, originally a gift for a woman, has kept the vibrations of love but lost the vineyards that surrounded it. It still has a singular soul. In the mornings, the sun's rays dance through the original stained-glass windows, which have been completely renovated, like chimes of sour candy. There's magic in the air.

In the evening, the atmosphere is more subdued, with chef Quentin Merlet's gourmet table. The second dining room, white and wine-red, overlooks the beautifully designed park with its pond, the old stained-glass windows having been removed. A simple, modern elegance that contrasts with the upper floors. For the château's 9 rooms and suites invite you to dream of princes and princesses: drapes, four-poster beds, thick carpeting, period furniture... A way of marking the difference with the 37 other rooms and suites in the modern extensions. Soft mustard yellow here, deep blue there and pistachio green on the walls continue to set the tone. The canopy is modern and the wallpaper is framed.

The Grand Barrail has been given a facelift, right down to the spa, signed Sothys, where Jean-Philippe Nuel has brilliantly woven a dialogue between heritage and contemporary. He's no stranger to the genre - we owe him the transformation of the Molitor swimming pool in Paris and the Hôtel-Dieu in Lyon into hotels. And he's also a familiar face to the Guillard family (CHG Participations), who called on his pencil stroke for the Hôtel Le Cinq Codet in Paris and the Château Fonroque winery. A winery that's only a few pedal strokes away, by electric bike and through the vines. A lovely escape for a wine-tasting pretext...

• Three questions for chef Quentin Merlet of the Château-Hôtel Grand Barrail restaurant.

Gault&Millau: How would you define your cuisine?

Quentin Merlet: It's an authentic, simple and gourmet cuisine that aims to please, for a moment of conviviality and generosity. For example, I like to work with vine shoots to smoke fish, meat or vegetables, just like in the family. I grew up with this taste, which is always present in at least one of my recipes.

G&M: What are your ambitions?

Q. M.: To keep progressing. We started from scratch at Le Grand Barrail. So the important thing is to keep moving up, while taking our time. I'm also trying to make the restaurant accessible to all budgets, with a bistronomic offer at lunchtime and a gastronomic one in the evening. I like to tickle the taste buds of the locals, some of whom have become regulars. My greatest dream would be to have a vegetable garden on site. Maybe next year?

G&M: As well as cooking, you have another passion: rugby...

Q. M.: Yes, and it helps me a lot in management. Rugby is a philosophy, a school of life. You learn to work together without distinction. We're all the same on the pitch or in the kitchen. In fact, there will soon be 15 of us, just like on a rugby team. I'm a bit like the captain. My wife helps me too, she's my second sous-chef. I don't have the time to play like I used to, but I still do sometimes. It's relaxing to tackle!

Route de Libourne D243, 33330 Saint-Émilion.

Tel.: 05 57 55 37 00.

www.gran d-barrail.com