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One fig, one egg!

One fig, one egg!

Anne Debbasch | 8/3/22, 10:00 AM
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An old adage that reflects the nutritional richness of this fleshy fruit, whether white, red, purple or even black. This new fruity end-of-summer episode reveals the delicate flavours of the different fig varieties.

Originating in the Orient, there are over 800 varieties of fig in the world. Despite popular belief, the fig is first and foremost a flower, and the small seeds inside (or achenes) are the real fruit. France is the fourth-largest fig producer behind Spain, Italy and Greece, producing 3,000 to 4,000 tonnes a year in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, Languedoc-Roussillon and Corsica.

The Solliès purple fig has had an AOC since 2006 and an AOP since 2011. Harvested only once a year, from the end of August, it is appreciated for its intense aromas, sweetness and light acidity. White figs are harvested twice a year, in June-July and autumn. Softer and sweeter, it is said to have hints of honey.

The fruit doesn't ripen once picked, so it's important to choose it carefully. It should be tender and soft, with a plump, supple skin that doesn't wilt. Sometimes, a little juice is released, a sign of ripeness. Energetic, figs provide 69 kcal per 100 g.

Rich in sugars and fiber, it is also rich in vitamin B9 and minerals (potassium, magnesium, calcium). Very fragile, they can only be kept for 48 hours in a cool place, but can easily be frozen or eaten dried. Its best friends in the kitchen are fruity - raspberries, quince, black grapes, chestnuts, pears - spicy - cinnamon, thyme, honey - or savory - goat's cheese, foie gras, Parma ham or game.

Here are a few tips before getting down to cooking.

  • We love it raw with the skin, rinsed in fresh water.

  • We also like it roasted in the oven. Simply cut off the stalk, make a cross-shaped incision and add honey or a little brown sugar.

  • In patisserie, we imagine a deconstructed pavlova with meringue, chestnut cream and fig.

  • In winter, fig jam is the perfect accompaniment to foie gras.

  • To dry figs at home, simply place them in the oven at 60°C for between 24 and 36 hours, tail up.

  • To incorporate dried figs into a preparation, it's best to cut them into slices rather than cubes, for a more homogeneous taste.

Our current favorites!

  • Fig tart, Pâtisserie Noisette, Biarritz

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Half tart, half dessert, Mathieu Turonnet's creation is a real eye-opener. A crunchy sweet pastry filled with almond cream sprinkled with fig pieces, fig jam, creamy vanilla whipped cream, fresh figs and a few pieces of crumble pastry. "Figs are self-sufficient for their flavors. However, I like to work it in different textures: the fresh figs are cooked with the pastry and the fig jam. After cooking, I add the fresh fruit. This way, you get all the flavors and textures of the fruit."A must-try in the Basque country!

Quartier du port vieux, 5 rue Gaston Larre, 64200 Biarritz

  • Rustic fig tart, Atelier P1 in Paris

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@SebastienDuboisDidock @AnneClaireHeraud

Old-fashioned tarts are one of baker Julien Cantenot's specialties. Shaped by hand, the dough is made with wholemeal flour and cane sugar. "I like the raw side of this tart, which really brings out the fruit. There are very few ingredients, just the pastry, a little almond powder and fresh fruit that I select exclusively from France. We don't use circles, and the pieces of figs cut into 4 are arranged randomly. These are rustic tarts where the pastry is folded by hand."Deliciously caramelized, we love this tart just like home!

157, rue Marcadet, Paris 18

www.atel ierp1.fr

  • Fig jam, Arnaud Larher in Paris

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The Solliès fig is one of Arnaud Larher's favorite fruits. His jams are just one of the variations he makes with over 60% of the fruit. "I appreciate their fragrance and long finish. To keep the chewiness in my jams, I cut the fruit in 4, add a little lemon juice and natural violet aroma to reinforce the sweetness of the fig."Irresistible, this jam is best enjoyed with a teaspoon. The only way to fully appreciate it is to go for it!

53, rue Caulaincourt Paris 18

www.arna udlarher.com

  • Fig ice cream, Pierre Chauvet, Aubenas

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@AlbanCouturier

At Pierre Chauvet, figs take pride of place in sorbet and ice cream. "I make a fig sorbet that I like to serve with a goat's milk ice cream that Ienrich with chestnut honey.I enrich it with chestnut honey for its slightly bitter notes, and with figs and dried apricots for a gourmet touch."We succumb to this singular combination of flavors, created with the finest local produce!

42, Bd Gambetta, 07200 Aubenas

www.pier rechauvet.com

  • Pineapple and fig cake, Jean-Paul Hevin, Paris

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@StudiodesFleurs

Because Jean-Paul Hevin doesn't only offer chocolate, the pastry chef also likes to offer cakes, each more gourmet than the last. "I wanted to make a cookie with exotic flavors. So I combined homemade pineapple confit with dried figs, which I choose at the beginning of the season so that they are tender. The biscuit is then flavored with Madagascar vanilla, followed by a touch of white rum at the end of baking."It's impossible not to enjoy this cake, from breakfast to afternoon tea.

Jean-Paul Hévin, 23bis avenue de la Motte-Picquet, Paris 7

www.jean paulhevin.com

  • Fig Praline, Gilles Cresno, Rueil-Malmaison

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@GCresno

A must-have in the collection, the fig praline chocolate bonbon. The chocolatier's idea is to combine an almond-hazelnut praline with a few pieces of dried fig. On the palate, we love the slight resistance provided by the still-soft dried fruit, which contrasts deliciously with the melt-in-the-mouth praline. Irresistibly delicious and quite unique!

Atelier-boutique 63, rue Gallieni, 92500 Rueil-Malmaison, France

www.gilles-cresno-chocolatier.com

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