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Where to find good maroilles?

Where to find good maroilles?

Marc Esquerré et Florence Saint-Martin | 11/15/24, 8:12 AM
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Maroilles, the emblematic cheese of the Nord region, seduces with its unique taste and century-old history. Discover the origins of this regional delicacy and the best places to enjoy a slice of authenticity.

It's the only AOC (since 1955) and AOP (since 1996) cheese in the Nord region. The region's king of cheeses is also one of its oldest. Although it has been made by Thiérache farmers since the Middle Ages, its commercial production really got off the ground on the initiative of the monks of the Maroilles Abbey, which gave it its name. The appellation zone lies on the border of the Nord and Aisne départements.

Initially a commodity, Maroilles was used as a tax by farmers to pay their tithes. Three key factors have helped to boost its reputation: the quality of the milk from local breeds of cow, such as the Rouge flamande; the tradition of maturing the cheese for several months in the caves of Thiérache (although less reputed than those of Roquefort, they nonetheless played a key role); and the ancestral know-how of the craftsmen.

This soft cheese with a washed rind is recognizable by its shape - an imposing square measuring 13 cm on each side and 6 cm thick - and by its color. Natural mold, rubbed off the surface, gives it a slightly orange hue. It is made exclusively from cow's milk, which can be used raw, thermized or pasteurized.

Maroilles is often reduced to its powerful aroma - as seen in the 2008 film Bienvenue chez les Ch'tis (Welcome to the Sticks) - when in fact it's the finesse and richness of its aroma that should be the focus of attention, first on the nose and then on the palate. like Alsatian Munster, it hides a unique subtlety and character beneath its pervasive aroma, making it a natural regional star.

A delicate cheese that goes well with a good top-fermented northern lager, or a slightly fruity dry white wine, such as Sancerre or Muscat d'Alsace. Let's get to tasting.

A history of maturing

In 2020, 113 producers turned 35 million liters of milk into Maroilles, for an annual production of over 4,000 tons. Ripening remains an essential stage in the cheese-making process. Its duration defines the quality of the maroilles: 5 months minimum maturing for maroilles gris, 35 days for maroilles classique (720 g), 28 days for maroilles sorbais (540 g), 28 days for maroilles mignon (360 g), 21 days for maroilles quart (180 g).

Six good places to find a good maroilles

Ferme de la Fontaine Orion - Claire Halleux ❤

The family farm, which has been located in the heart of the Thiérache region since 1982, now has over 150 dairy cows of Holstein and Flemish breeds. The cheeses are matured in a vaulted cellar with brick walls that diffuses an ideal temperature. Maroilles remains the mainstay of production: farmhouse maroilles, Avesnes dumplings, dauphins (tarragon-flavored maroilles), creams and tarts with... maroilles.

Tasting notes: A fine, homogeneous pavé, with very fine, barely visible striations, giving the impression of an artisanal ripened cheese. The cut is very white, with a slight creaminess near the rind. The nose reveals nutty, amylic flavors and fresh, clean milk. On the palate, it's really pleasant, with a character that develops over the course of the tasting, combining power and finesse.

  • Price: 11.60 euros
  • Maturing: 55 days
  • 1 rue Hurtebise, 02140 Haution

Château Courbet Farm

This family farm, founded in 1976 and taken over by Jérôme and Stéphane Roseleur, the second generation, has just inaugurated a new building in 2024 - larger (1100 m2 ), more modern and more practical. The cows are mainly Brunes des Alpes, renowned for the quality of their milk. Local cheeses are produced on site, led by maroilles, beer-aged maroilles and farmhouse maroilles, as well as boulette d'Avesnes, farmhouse vieux-lille and traditional flamiches.

Tasting notes
: A large cobble with rounded corners, dense in appearance, orange tinged with yellow. The cut reveals creamy edges, a beautiful paste with tiny alveoli, and a milky nose with hints of almond. The palate is quite rich, very slightly soapy and chalky, well salted and quite powerful, suggesting a fine evolution.
  • Price: 10 euros on site (14-18 euros elsewhere)
  • Maturing: 40 days
  • 2 chemin de la neuville, 59440 Boulogne-sur-Helpe
  • www.ferm educhateaucourbet.com

Fromagerie Lait 2 Fermes

This entity was born in 2018 from the association of Jason Labois and his father, two farmers with a passion for local produce who decided to revive the Éparcy cheese dairy. They produce local dairy products, including Maroilles, made from the raw milk of cows raised on the farm. Other local products, such as apple juice, beers and tripe, are on sale on the premises, rounding out the discovery of regional specialties.

Tasting notes: An irregular, slightly oozing, striated cobblestone with a typical orange hue, farmhouse and artisanal in appearance. Chalky white to the cut, smooth, it lacks a little distinction on the nose, but remains classic and slightly full-bodied. The palate is interesting, and the soft paste - though a little too salty - is long and typical of Maroilles.

Ferme de Cerfmont

Ferme de Cerfmont has been in Maroilles since 1980, and is unique in its "country" for making raw-milk Maroilles. The Druesnes family also prepares other local specialties such as Avesnes dumplings and Cerfmont hearts. You'll also find the famous flamiche with maroilles, on sale in the adjoining store. Open weekdays, Saturday mornings and Sunday afternoons, the farm also organizes guided tours and tastings.

Tasting notes: An imposing cube with regular striations, a little embossed on the sides, appetizing in appearance. White when cut, crumbly in the center, soft at the ends, its dairy nose is well marked, revealing notes of milk caramel. On the palate, with good chewiness, its character is evolving and the rind is pleasant.

  • Price: 16.50 euros
  • Maturing: 48 days
  • 1 ruelle Vendois, 59550 Maroilles

La Ferme du Pont de Sains

The farm, flanked by two slender towers framing the entrance to the former Château du Pont de Sains, has become an ESAT (establishment for assisted employment). It accommodates around 130 disabled adults, supervised by monitors and cheese-makers. The maroilles produced on site, which won a gold medal at the La Capelle 2024 local produce competition, have been making the grade for over thirty years. On-site sales.

Tasting notes: The straight-faced pavé is regular, with a bright orange washed rind. Still young, visible when cut, white in the center, more yellow at the edges, it is resolutely farmhouse on the nose, with fermented milk, meadow flowers and apricot notes. A little salty on the palate, this Maroilles still lacks length and mellowness.

La Ferme du Pont des Loups

The family farm has grown from 25 to 250 ha, where dairy cows are raised. Farmhouse Maroilles has been produced here since the beginning, and is now presented alongside traditional local cheeses and very personal creations such as " Chaud Biloute ", to be eaten warm in the oven. Some fine medals have been won for their production, such as "Felait" with truffles, another in-house creation. The venue organizes on-site meetings and tastings, and handles online sales.

Tasting notes: The moist washed rind, with its pronounced orange-pink hue, has irregular honeycombed faces. The cut reveals a homogeneous paste. On the nose, the aroma is classic, slightly powerful. The palate is pleasantly sweet, tempered by a slight spiciness in the aftertaste. This smooth Maroilles meets the standards of its category.

This article is taken from the Hauts-de-France 2025 guide. You can find it in bookshops or in our online store

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