Seaweed bliss

On the untamed coast of Le Croisic, Valérie and Jean-Marie Pédron passionately shape Les Jardins de la Mer, a unique "farm" of its kind. In this former saltworks, where Jean-Marie's parents pioneered marine aquaculture in the 1970s, the couple cultivate an ecological treasure to serve France's top chefs. The 7-hectare site, now classified as a Natura 2000 site, offers an ecosystem as precious as it is inspiring, with a network of natural basins fed by the tide to preserve seaweed in optimal conditions. The couple, who have prefectoral approval for harvesting, explore the foreshore of the Guérande peninsula nearly 250 days a year, in sunshine or storm, to hand-select seaweed of exceptional quality. They have chosen an artisanal and respectful approach, prioritizing quality over quantity, in order to preserve these fragile resources.

In the basins of their marine farm, each species of seaweed is stored in filtered seawater to maintain its freshness and reveal its rich taste. Chefs - from Ronan Kervarrec (Le Saison, Saint-Grégoire, 3 toques) to Arnaud Donckele (Plénitude, Paris, 5 toques) to Amaury Bouhours (Le Meurice Alain Ducasse, Paris, 5 toques d'or) - rave about their harvests. Their flagship varieties include sea lettuce, with its vegetal, floral fragrance ideal for wrapping around fish, and sea beans, crunchy and rich in nutrients. Other seaweeds, such as kombu, perfect for sophisticated broths, are dried naturally, thanks to wind and sun, to preserve their unique flavors. In all, the couple market a dozen of the hundreds of species found on the French coastline, offering a palette of unprecedented flavors that enrich the cuisine of these great names in gastronomy.

Although the vast majority of their harvest is destined for chefs, Jean-Marie and Valérie are keen to democratize the use of seaweed. Rich in vitamins (sea lettuce contains up to ten times more vitamin C than an orange) and proteins, seaweed grows in its natural environment, without the need for pesticides or fresh water, and has established itself as a food of the future. "Algae are the basis of life in the oceans, and therefore of the planet", reminds Jean-Marie Pédron, insisting on their crucial role in the marine ecosystem.

At the covered market in Le Croisic, the duo also offer dried seaweed, vinegars and spice blends, including a homemade furikake, where nori, kasha and fleur de sel make a perfect blend to spice up a simple bowl of rice. For those who wish to be initiated, picking and cooking workshops are organized. Les Jardins de la Mer, open from April to October, has become a place of transmission and exchange where Valérie, Jean-Marie and their loyal collaborators Émilie and Hélène welcome visitors and enthusiasts alike. "It's in our DNA to welcome the public," stresses Valérie, committed to helping people discover this food with its many benefits. Everything here, from the wild landscapes of the peninsula to the respectful harvesting methods, bears witness to their singular vision: to make seaweed part of our culinary heritage, without ever sacrificing the balance of this exceptional environment.