Julien Dumas' good addresses

Committed to sustainable cooking that respects the living world, Julien Dumas, chef at Le Pergolèse restaurant in Paris, cultivates strong ties with his producers. From the Perche to the Gironde estuary, the chef reveals the good addresses that fuel his creativity.

Mathilde Bourge Published on 10/5/25 at 7:17 AM

Chef Julien Dumas of Paris's Le Pergolèse restaurant (3 toques), a lover of the living world and a staunch defender of short circuits, works daily with a handful of hand-picked producers. From fruit picked at the peak of ripeness, to rare honeys and fleshy oysters matured in natural basins, he shares with us his favorite addresses, those that nourish his demanding, sincere cuisine, deeply linked to nature.

Gilbert Sebbagh's fruits, Saint-Andiol

" He's one of the last great fruit magicians. "Based in Saint-Andiol, near Aix-en-Provence, Gilbert Sebbagh passionately cultivates orchards the old-fashioned way, without compromising on quality. His peach conservatory is a treasure trove: some twenty rare and ancient varieties, as are his apricots, including the Rouge du Roussillon, which leaves the chef with " extraordinary " memories. As for cherries, the Napoleon, at once tart, sweet and firm, is a nugget. He also offers the Snow queen white nectarine and introduced Julien to the Manila strawberry, almost black, with a taste reminiscent of blackberry. His fruit can be found at markets and by expedition.
▶ Where? Route de Cabannes, 199 chemin Mas de Martial, 13670 Saint-Andiol, France

Cadres Noirs Percherons honey, Bonnétable

A producer of confidential, subtle honeys, Patrick Cholet is a committed beekeeper. His buckwheat honey has a rare aromatic power, his wax is of exceptional quality and his pollen is rich and fragrant, all the hallmarks of a goldsmith's skill. " These are products that are sometimes found in delicatessens, but which we especially enjoy helping customers discover. "

Where to buy? Les Cadres Noirs Percherons, 514B rue du Charme, 72110 Bonnétable, France
www.les-cadres-noirs-percherons.fr

Ondine Morin and Jean-Denis Le Pape's fish, in Ouessant

Ondine Morin and her husband fish for pollack in the wild waters off Ouessant. This noble fish, with its firm, tasty flesh, is available through the Poiscaille network, which promotes small-scale fishing. " Their work is exemplary. It's line fish, fresh, respectful of the seasons and resources. "
▶ Find out more about their fishing on the Poiscaille website

Oysters from La Ferme Marine d'Artouan, Saint-Just-Luzac

A confidential address for oysters of great complexity. La Ferme Marine d'Artouan raises its oysters in natural basins, where the oyster beds are cleaned by shrimp. The result? Special, fleshy oysters with a generous texture and remarkable salt maturation. " At the height of the season, they also make shrimp of rare quality. "

Where? Ferme Marine d'Artouan, 17320 Saint-Just-Luzac
www.facebook.com/fermemarinedartouan

Vegetables from Champ d'à Côté, Herblay

Roland Rigault is a discreet but indispensable market gardener. Although he's not certified organic, he works with integrated farming methods, using no chemical treatments and rotating the soil, with constant attention paid to biodiversity. His specialty? Cabbages, in all their diversity. " A great source of inspiration, especially in winter. "