Zostera

Rating: 16.5
Author: Gault&Millau

40 Rue Pergolèse, 75116 Paris, France

16.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

13 PHOTOS

Chef: Julien Dumas
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine | Traditional
Services: Privatization | Valet parking
Style: Romantic | With family

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

50 to 125

Gault&Millau's review 2026

In this quiet corner near Foch and the Étoile, Julien Dumas’s success is a joy to see. A full house, staff who are visibly motivated and happy, and a fine clientele—connoisseurs who love to eat. And he has every reason to celebrate, as the restaurant—set in this elegant and inviting space—is so well-run. From his years working in luxury hotels (Lucas Carton, the Saint-James…), that attention to detail—which sometimes borders on sophistication, with a tiny herb, a little flower, or a precious little touch—but above all, he’s retained his sense of taste, his vibrant energy, and his playful ingenuity for transforming a nice dish into a truly excellent one. We nibble on the mushroom tartlet with its mushroom and sweet clover sabayon, the artichoke cooked in beeswax—to which the cow parsnip adds its full flavor—while the mackerel seems somewhat overshadowed. We savor the spider crab—a faithful interpretation of this voracious crustacean—with its beautiful texture and a well-executed pairing with zucchini blossoms, before the lobster and spinach bisque, where the lemon caviar beads pop delightfully on the tongue. Next comes the John Dory, equally faithfully prepared, delicately seared in butter with a pleasant sabayon, followed by the dessert—simple yet delicious—featuring strawberries and fir buds. A fine and extensive wine cellar with 900 selections organized by price range—most between €55 and €195—covering all regions.