The 10 that make up Aix-en-Provence

The ancient Roman city, glorified by the Counts of Provence in the 17th century, welcomes a growing number of visitors every year, seduced not only by its rich heritage, but also (and above all!) by its gentle way of life.) by its gentle way of life... its 300 days of sunshine a year, the charm of its narrow streets and shady squares, the wealth of its museums and art centers; not forgetting the exceptional surrounding countryside with its vineyards and garrigues, watched over by the Sainte-Victoire mountain, so dear to Paul Cézanne. Far, far from the hustle and bustle of Marseille (its great rival), Aix offers its visitors an elegance and art of living that will delight art lovers and epicureans alike.art lovers and epicureans alike, delighted to discover its markets and 100% Provencal delicacies, starting with the famous calisson. Discover the best of the city in our 10 top picks...

Where to stay?

• Cézanne

A stone's throw from the Cours Mirabeau, this boutique hotel rightly boasts the spirit of a true family home... We love the cozy lounge that doubles as a lobby, the 55 rooms and suites with their hushed luxury, antique doors and natural materials. with their antique doors, natural materials and plant-based wallpapers, not to mention a shady courtyard where you can enjoy a breakfast of delicious home-made pastries. There's no restaurant here, just chefs' signature dishes in jars, soups and savoury tarts served fresh in the lounge, on the terrace or as room service, demonstrating the warmth and efficiency of our guest care. A simple, refined stopover, ideal for discovering the city of Cézanne.

Double room from €135.

40, avenue Victor-Hugo. Tel. 04 42 91 11 11

• Le Pigonnet

In the heart of a garden overgrown with roses, this 18th-century dovecote was transformed into a 5-star hotel in the 1920s, when Aix established itself as a leading spa destination. Owned by the Swellen family for three generations, it now boasts 48 Provencal-style rooms and suites, some of which feature fine paintings and engravings acquired by the art-loving owners. The park is also home to the Villa du Pigonnet, a confidential retreat for 8 people, flanked by a garden and private pool. An Aix institution since 1924, the Table du Pigonnet is run by Thierry Balligand, who serves southern-style cuisine on the terrace, which is extended by an avenue of century-old chestnut trees. And just a stone's throw away, the long swimming pool amidst the trees invites you to relax and unwind...

Double room from €263.

5, avenue du Pigonnet. Tel: 04 42 59 02 90.

Where to have lunch, dinner or a drink?

• The craziest: Château de la Gaude

Welcome to wonderland, where your eyes are wide open to the works of contemporary art scattered everywhere, to the surrounding vineyards that produce confidential wines, to the French garden listed as a historical monument, to the Provencal bastide. French garden, the 17th-century Provencal country house, the secret hideaways in the heart of nature and, last but not least, the four unique restaurants. Welcome to Château de la Gaude. Behind all these stoves is a conductor, Matthieu Dupuis-Baumal, well-versed in the art since his time at Domaine de Manville in Les Baux-de-Provence. Surrounded by a fine team, including Matthieu Derible for the gastronomic restaurant Le Art, the tandem will surpass themselves in seeking out new flavors.

3959, route des Pinchinats. Tel: 04 84 93 09 30.

• Le Jeune Talent: Once upon a time

The adventure continues for Bastien and Clara, in their well-appointed Provencal-style house with contemporary touches, in an alleyway in the old town. Clara, who was Jeune Talent 2022, shines in the dining room, precise and smiling, with an excellent touch, while Bastien polishes up his presentations, in a modern register with a regional twist.

4, rue Lieutaud. Tel: 04 42 58 78 56.

• Café Caumont

A magnificent 18th-century townhouse, the Hôtel de Caumont is not only noteworthy for its ochre facade, music salon and interior fountains... in 2015 and now the property of the municipality, the Hôtel de Caumont boasts a number of attractive spaces dedicated to temporary exhibitions, as well as a magnificent shaded terrace. Aix residents gather here to enjoy an excellent brunch on Sundays and sip cocktails on summer evenings before taking in a jazz concert. The program is ultra-entertaining and the address, magical, not to be missed.

Café Caumont. 3, rue Joseph-Cabassol. Tel: 04 42 20 70 01.

Things to see and do...

• The Place Richelme market

Markets here are veritable institutions, taking over the city's alleyways and squares every morning. Our favorite? The Place de Richelme market, the most local of all, with an abundance of fruit, flowers and vegetables from the surrounding gardens, lavender and thyme honeys, tapenades, small goat's cheeses and fougasses still warm from the oven.vre cheeses and still-warm fougasses... And to prolong this 100% Provencal gourmet quest, head for the legendary Confiserie du Roy René, just a stone's throw away. For a century now, this address has been thrilling sweet tooths with its nougats, cookies, caramels and, of course, calissons. This typical Aix delicacy comes in an infinite variety of flavors (cointreau, chocolate...) and the patisserie also offers workshops to help you discover the secret of its subtle alliance of almond, melon and honey.

Confiserie du Roy René. 11, rue Gaston-de-Saporta. Tel: 04 42 26 67 86.

• Cours Mirabeau and the narrow streets of the old town

The beating heart of the city, where it all begins and ends. Since the 17th century, the Cours Mirabeau has been the symbol of an ideal Provence, with its shady alleys, private mansions and café terraces (with a special mention for the mythical Vieux Garçons) that fill up late into the night. A must-see, the Cours is also the starting point for strolling through the narrow streets of the medieval town, with some real treasures in store. The Saint-Sauveur cathedral and its 5th-century baptistery; the Musée du Vieil-Aix and its ancient puppets; the clock tower and its moving wooden statues symbolizing the seasons. A perfect summary of Aix's history, the district is also a great place for shopping, with a number of boutiques not to be missed. These include Rose et Marius, with perfumes inspired by the designer's native Provence, and the delicatessen La Maison Française, featuring the very best in local specialties, as well as a remarkable selection of home decor and tableware.

Rose et Marius. 3, rue Thiers. Tel: 09 82 59 35 35.

La Maison Française. 3 bis, rue Fernand-Dol.

• Granet Museum

With over 12,000 works, this is one of France's richest museums, and its collections contain some real nuggets. European painting, particularly Dutch with Rubens and Rembrandt, and a broad panorama of the French school with Ingres, Géricault, Boudin and Maurice Denis; not to mention ten works by local ambassador Paul Cézanne, including the famous Bathers and a moving portrait of his friend Émile Zola. Largely dedicated to classical painting, the museum does not forget the art of the 19th and 20th centuries, with works by Bonnard, Van Gogh and Picasso, housed just a stone's throw away in the chapelle des Pénitents blancs. It also prides itself on offering its devotees remarkable temporary exhibitions. On the menu in 2023? After the David Hockney retrospective in the spring, "Naples for Passion" and masterpieces from the De Vito collection from July 15 to October 29.

Place Saint-Jean-de-Malte. Tel. 04 42 52 88 32.

• Cézanne's studio and places of inspiration.

Cézanne is widely celebrated at the Musée Granet, but the town has also had the (very) good idea of concocting a made-to-measure itinerary to discover his favorite places. First, we head for the master's studio, where we find his entire universe (the pipe from Les Joueurs de cartes, bottles and still-life ceramics). We then head for the Jas de Bouffan bastide, the family estate that reveals the landscapes celebrated in his watercolors. Finally, we drive through pine forests and vineyards towards Mont Sainte-Victoire, a limestone massif of verdant valleys and mineral cliffs that he painted nearly 80 times. The last stop is the cabin in the Bibémus quarries, facing a grandiose landscape that brings together all the shapes, colors and lights of Provence.

Cézanne's studio. 9, avenue Paul-Cézanne. Tel. 04 42 21 06 53.

Bastide du Jas de Bouffan. 17, route De Galice.

Cabanon des carrières de Bibémus. 3090, chemin de Bibémus.

In the footsteps of Cézanne, downloadable itinerary.

• The new face of Aix

Determined not to be confined by the image of a museum town, Aix has chosen to expand northwards, creating new districts and an artistic and cultural hub as spectacular as it is avant-garde. The proof is in the form of this concentration of buildings designed by great architects... The Grand Théâtre de Provence with its immense ship-like appearance designed by Vittorio Gregotti and Paola Colao, the Pavillon Noir - a sumptuous concrete resille de béton imaginé par Rudy Ricciotti qui abrite la troupe du danseur Angelin Preljocaj - ou encore le conservatoire de musique Darius Milhaud, monolithe de bois et de métal inspiré des origamis japonais et griffée Kengo Kuma. A great show, to be followed by the discovery of botanist Patrick Blanc's 15-metre-high plant wall on the Max-Juvénal Bridge, featuring some 20,000 plants... A masterful way to combine art and ecology!

Le Grand Théâtre de Provence. 380, avenue Max-Juvénal.

Pavillon Noir. 530, avenue Mozart.

Conservatoire de musique Darius Milhaud. 380, avenue Mozart.

A further escape

• Between art and wine, Château La Coste

This place alone is worth the trip. In the village of Puy-Sainte-Réparade, a few kilometers from Aix-en-Provence, Irish patron of the arts Patrick McKillen has created an art center unlike any other in the world... Some 200 hectares of vineyards, hills and forests dotted with a myriad of artworks, to make the greatest collectors green with envy. As soon as you enter, you'll be greeted by an immense spider by Louise Bourgeois resting on a pool of water; the tour continues with the discovery of spectacular metal plates raised to the sky by the American sculptor Richard Serra, a mobile by Calder quivering in the air, and a series of works of art by the French sculptor Jean-François de Vaucluse.Calder's mobile quivering in the wind, a small 16th-century chapel restored by star Japanese architect Tadao Ando and adorned with a glass-beaded cross by Othoniel, and Frank Gehry's music pavilion, looking like a giant Mikado. Here, the immense winery is by Jean Nouvel, the art center by Tadao Ando, but nothing intimidating. Everything is designed to delight the eye and the exquisite serenity of the moment, which can be extended by lunch at the simple Terrasse, laid out like a Provençal village square; at the Café-restaurant designed by Tadao Ando (again) or at one of the two more chic tables adjoining the hilltop luxury hotel - one of which, doubly toasted, is run by Hélène Darroze.

2750, route de la Cride, 13610 Le-Puy-Sainte-Réparade. Tel: 04 42 61 92 90.