Le paris-brest
Gault&Millau continues its sweet journey to discover the desserts that have shaped our gourmet heritage. All aboard, Simone, for a Paris-Brest trip that can be totally crazy!
In 1910, Maisons-Laffitte-based pastry chef Louis Durand created a dessert at the request of Pierre Giffard, founder of the Paris-Brest bicycle race. Little did he know that his cake would make such a lasting impression. To dedicate it to the race, he imagined a choux pastry entremets in the shape of a bicycle wheel, with spokes made from bread dough, which you simply follow to cut the slices.
The choux pastry is traditionally filled with praline cream, which can be worked into pastry cream, buttercream or mousseline. The choux is then sprinkled with slivered almonds. Today, chefs create a multitude of variations. The choux pastry is then filled with cream made from a variety of dried fruits or seeds: sesame, pecan, pistachio, the cream can be accompanied by citrus inserts, intense hazelnut praline, candied orange peel or a thin slab of chocolate.
On top, dried fruit adds a delicious crunch. To dress the cake, the pastry chefs use the piping bag to their heart's content, sometimes forming ripples of cream, sometimes generous creamy drops for our greatest indulgence.
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Pierre-Jean Quinonero's paris-brest, Le Burgundy, Paris
Luxury version. Pierre-Jean Quinonero plays with dried fruit to create four exceptional paris-brest. "To give a special texture to the choux pastry, I make it with honey. For the cream, I chose diplomate for its lightness."Depending on the season, we discover the pistachio-orange blossom version, as well as the pecan version for winter, the almond and Tahitian vanilla caviar version and, most recently, the French hazelnut interpretation from Lot-et-Garonne. Enjoy as a snack or take away with click & collect.
6-8, rue Duphot, 75001 Paris
www.lebu rgundy.com
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Frédéric Tessier's "Paris-Carette", Carette, Paris
The unusual "Paris-Carette" is played with lightning. An elongated choux pastry conceals a hazelnut cream, flavored with orange zest and separated by a thin strip of praline.On top of the pastry base, I add a homemade Piedmont hazelnut praline for texture and deliciousness. Its shape allows it to be eaten like a lightning bolt."A version to devour on a terrace overlooking the Eiffel Tower, or even with your fingertips while strolling along the Trocadéro esplanade.
4, place du Trocadéro et du 11-Novembre, 75006 Paris
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Paris-brest from Mathieu Turonnet, Noisette Pâtisserie, Biarritz
An original variation on salted peanuts! "I fill the choux pastry with a milk chocolate and peanut crunch, on top of which I place a peanut praline whipped cream and, finally, a runny peanut praline."What we like: the slightly salty taste that breaks up the sweetness of the cake, giving it a long finish, and the flowing praline that reinforces the intensity of this cake, which we could unhesitatingly call the "Paris-Biarritz"! Ultra-gourmand.
5, rue Gaston-Larré, 64200 Biarritz
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Fabrice Raugi's iced variation, Bastia
Just imagined by Fabrice Raugi, "Bastia-Cervioni" comes in Corsican flavors. "We chose Cervioni hazelnuts for the ice cream, accompanied by our royal hazelnut sauce to garnish the choux pastry. To serve it, we designed a blond chocolate and hazelnut paste sauce served warm as an accompaniment."A one-of-a-kind creation, the first Paris-brest glacé, to be discovered in March!
2 bis, rue du Chanoine-Colombani, 20200 Bastia
www.raug i.fr
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Philippe Conticini's version, in Paris
A classic among classics, paris-brest is made here with a rich, unctuous cream and a runny 69% hazelnut and almond praline, like"a big hug", says the pastry chef. A version you must try at least once in your life.
42, rue de l'Annonciation, 75016 Paris
www.phii ppeconticini.fr
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Paris-brest from Lilian Bonnefoi, Antibes
A praline cream and a liquid praline heart with Piedmont hazelnuts, not much choux pastry: this is the secret of Lilian Bonnefoi's version. The perfect balance of four small choux lined up in a row and generously topped with cream. A real treat.
7, avenue Robert-Soleau, 06600 Antibes
www.lili anbonnefoi.com
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