Le creusois, its history and our good addresses
An emblematic hazelnut-based dessert, creusois is a rare commodity except in the Creuse. Legend has it that its recipe was discovered on a parchment in the ruins of a monastery in the Crocq region in the 15th century.
Soft, melting and tender, it can be enjoyed on its own or with a hot drink or glass of Gewurztraminer. It can also be served with a variety of creams. With its basic ingredients of sugar, egg whites, butter, hazelnuts and flour, this seemingly simple cake requires a real mastery of the art. Today, it's recognizable by its packaging, a red cardboard box stamped " Le Véritable gâteau Le Creusois" ( The Genuine Le Creusois Cake). For a snack, head for the Creuse... but not only!
Philippe Vacheyroux, Boussac (23)
Le Creusois is a symbol! Invented in the 60s by pastry-makers in the Creuse region, the cake has its fervent defenders. "Today, 23 confectioners make it according to the recipe developed by the association. The hazelnuts come from Lot-et-Garonne, but we're working to have a local hazelnut industry in a few years' time," confides Philippe Vacheyroux, 4th president of the Le Creusois association. A travel cake par excellence, its special feature is that one of the family sizes is baked in a tile. Thicker, it's exceptionally moist.
➤ Where? 1 avenue d'Auvergne 23600 Boussac
Didier Barbaroux, Villechalane-Sionneau Guéret
" I took over the Villechalane - Sionneau patisserie in 2008, perpetuating the Creusois recipe made by Mr. Villechalane since 1969. Today, we all have the same recipe. What changes is the skill and the cooking," explains Didier Barbaroux. Every year in October, for the hazelnut festival, the region's pastry-makers organize a competition. " Our idea is to set ourselves a challenge that will enable us to maintain the quality of our cake. We won the 1ᵉʳ prize in 2020."
- Where? Pâtisserie Villechalane-Sionneau 1 Place Bonnyaud, 23000 Guéret
- www.villechalane-sionneau.fr
Sylvie and Didier Giraud, Guéret
Winner of the 2022 competition, "The special feature of my Creusois is that I add roasted hazelnut slivers to the pastry to give it a crunchy touch. I have one person entirely dedicated to baking it, and we bake around a hundred a day! "A much-appreciated cake, it keeps for two weeks, and up to 8 weeks when vacuum-packed. To keep up with demand day and night, Sylvie and Didier Guiraud devised a vending machine in front of the store, so you can come and buy your Creusois whenever you feel like it!
➤ Where? 6, Place du Marché, 23000 Guéret
Vincent Rullière, Pâtisserie Rullière Aubusson
To make his Creusois, Vincent Rullières, who joined the association only nine months ago, plays on the roasting of the hazelnuts and the texture of the cake. " I like well roasted hazelnuts. In my mixture, I leave some hazelnut slivers to add a bit of bite. As for baking, I aim for a thin crust on top to contrast with the cake's softness. "Here, the Creusois is available as a bite-sized coffee cake, in individual format, in a version for six people, and in tuiles on weekends. For visiting tourists, the vacuum-packed square shape is always available.
- Where to buy? Pâtisserie Rullière 81 Grande Rue, 23200 Aubusson, France
- www.facebook.com/rulliere
Lucas Simoncini's interpretation, Royal Riviera, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
" I've reinterpreted this regional cake in a gluten-free version based on potato starch. I also replace some of the hazelnut butter with grapeseed oil to give it a very moist texture."The Pastry Chef's touch: a pinch of fleur de sel to enhance the flavors of the roasted hazelnut, and a two-layer appearance achieved by lining the mold with butter and hazelnut before baking. 5-star inspiration!
- Where? 3 avenue Jean Monnet, 06230 Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
- www.royal-riviera.fr
©LSimoncini
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