The Japanese knife, an ancestral tradition

In the fast-paced world of gastronomy, chefs the world over are bound by a well-kept secret: their unshakeable passion for knives. More than just work tools, these precision instruments are at the very heart of the culinary art. Conversations in the brigade revolve around their blades, and it's with particular care that each chef chooses his arsenal, aware of the direct impact these tools have on the quality of their creations.

Knives are not just kitchen accessories, they are extensions of a chef's creativity, indispensable companions on the road. That's why, like those Hunger Games contestants on prime-time TV, many chefs never go anywhere without their own set of knives. Carefully selected pieces that reflect their style and expertise.

The chic of Japanese blades

In the vast world of knives, Japanese blades shine with particular brilliance. Renowned for their finesse, balance and a sharpness that could make a razor blush, these little jewels of craftsmanship brilliantly blend ancestral tradition with innovation. With their fascinating history and meticulous Swiss clockwork craftsmanship, Japanese knives have risen to the top of the cutting tool pyramid.

Like a scene from an Akira Kurosawa film, the story of Japanese knives begins on an animated battlefield, where samurai, armed with their katanas and wis with their katanas and wakizashis, twirl their long, curved blades, slicing through air and chaos with an elegance worthy of a choreographed dance. But fast forward to the Meiji revolution of 1868, which consigned all those noble warriors in puffed-up skirts and breeches to oblivion. The katana and other prohibited "cutters" were replaced by a new protagonist: the kitchen knife. Japanese master knifemakers, often referred to as "Togishi", true masters of steel, turned to creating domestic knives, sold without restriction and adapted to local needs such as farming, hunting or fishing. And that's how a martial art became a culinary art!

It wasn't until the late 1990s that these exceptional blades conquered France. At first, they were little more than exotic souvenirs brought back by French chefs after their trips to Japan. These first imported knives, mainly chef's knives and santokus, didn't really correspond to French culinary needs or local standards. But little by little, brands such as Global and Misono began to "westernize" these knives, equipping their blades with quality stainless steel and adapting them to French cutting habits. And so it was that the Japanese knife began to make a name for itself in the toasty kitchens of France, and very quickly became indispensable.

The different shapes of Japanese knives

In Japanese workshops, master cutlers are like alchemists of steel, transforming hard blocks into blades of a finesse that could cut through air itself. Damascus steel, legendary and mysterious, is transformed into razor-sharp blades. Japanese knives are the haute couture of the cutting world. With sharper blades than their Western counterparts, they promise remarkably precise cuts that would make open-heart surgery look like a crude job! The saber shape of the blade, the famous "gyuto", is not just an aesthetic choice, but a guarantee of mastery and control. As for the handle, often made of noble wood, it doesn't just embellish the object: it balances the whole perfectly, making these knives a natural and elegant extension of the chef's hand.

• Top of the list is the Santoku, a kitchen celebrity whose versatility shines through. It's the chef's Swiss Army knife, equally at home with vegetables, meat or fish. A true everyday hero for those who only have eyes for one cutting companion.
• The Nakiri, specially designed for vegetables and fruit, with its distinctive rectangular blade, generally measuring between 14 and 18 cm. Its flat surface has earned it the nickname of "shovel knife", and its ambidextrous V-shaped blade makes it accessible to a wide audience. A true democrat in the world of cutting!
• The Gyuto isthe all-purpose knife, the James Bond of the kitchen. Its long, narrow, razor-sharp blade is often preferred by professionals for cutting meat, but is just as effective for other culinary tasks.
• And then there's the Deba, the traditional knife par excellence, robust and reliable, designed for arduous tasks such as filleting fish or defying stubborn bones. A heavyweight that ensures safety and precision in your cuts.

Three brands of Japanese knives seen in chefs' kitchens

Kai

A name that has resonated in the world of knives for over 100 years, Kai is the quintessential combination of technical innovation and the ancestral heritage of the samurai. Born in the town of Seki, renowned as the beating heart of Japanese cutlery, Kai's Shun brand shines through its use of VG-MAX steel, a true badass when it comes to strength and sharpness. Their Shun Damascus series is a real treasure, seducing chefs the world over with its perfect balance and uncommonly strong blade. Comprising 32 layers of Damascus steel, with a core of corrosion-resistant Vg-10 steel, and a handle crafted from strips of Pacca, each knife is an exceptional, handcrafted piece, an ode to nature and human know-how. But quality comes at a price, and Kai, though sublime, can weigh heavily on the wallet.

Shan Zu

The challenger in the world of Japanese knives, Shan Zu makes a remarkable entry into the big leagues. Its Santoku model, born of Japanese ingenuity and designed in chrome-enriched stainless steel, defies corrosion, scratches and the most stubborn ingredients. Light and nimble as a feather, this knife is a dream for any chef who wants to combine maneuverability and efficiency. Its 2 mm thick blade is not just a precision asset; it's as fast as lightning, for cuts as clean as they are precise. And to make matters worse, its sandblasted surface isn't just pretty to look at: it's antibacterial, making cleaning as easy as child's play. But beware, this jewel requires attention: regular sharpening to keep its perfect edge. And beware of its delicacy, for its finesse can also be its weakness.

Global Sai

Global Sai is a major reference in the world of knives, regularly hailed as one of the best on the market. Each model is a signature design, a masterpiece by the renowned Komin Yamada, which catches the eye from the very first moment. From the experienced workshops of Yoshikin, famous for its early days as a steel cutlery manufacturer, the knives come in perfect monoblocks, with no welds whatsoever. Their design is built to stand the test of time, with blades that defy rust, stains and corrosion, while offering ease of sharpening thanks to their carbon-rich alloy. The hollow handle, characteristic of each piece, guarantees a grip that is both comfortable and secure, suitable for professional chefs and cooking enthusiasts alike.

But French cutlers, those proud artisans of the land, have decided not to be left behind by the tsunami of Japanese knives! Our Gauls, usually so attached to their traditions, are now flirting with Santoku and other Japanese icons. The workshops of Thiers and Biesles now resonate with the clash of hammers and the crackling of forges, giving birth to this new generation of knives. Nogent, TB, Deglon and others have joined the fray, ready to spice up the market with a zest of French chic.

Four questions for Matthieu Dupuis Baumal

Matthieu Dupuis Baumal, the Michelin-starred chef who orchestrates the stoves at Château de la Gaude in Aix-en-Provence, juggles flavors like a true maestro. At the helm of four restaurants, each of which shines with its own culinary brilliance, this former rugby player brilliantly fuses the finesse of French cuisine with the nuances of Japanese cuisine. He owes his influences to his mentors, from Eiichi Edakuni in Kyoto to Bernard Bach and Michel Troisgros, who taught him to juggle tastes and constantly innovate. Direct from the Land of the Rising Sun, where he often travels to get a feel for new trends in Japanese gastronomy, the chef answers our questions.

What initially attracted you to Japanese knives, and how have they changed the way you cook?

My fascination with Japanese knives was born during my many visits to Japan. Being left-handed, I had the unique opportunity to have a knife made to measure for me. Most Japanese knives are designed for right-handers, so having a knife adapted to my hand completely changes the way I cook. In particular, I have a 70 cm blade specially designed for lifting tuna. My admiration for ancestral Japanese know-how, which has its roots in the samurai, continues to grow. The respect for the blade, its sharpness and the specific care required for each type of knife have left a deep impression on me.

Could you share a particular experience where the quality of a Japanese knife made a significant difference in the preparation of a dish?

Absolutely. When you handle a Japanese knife, especially after getting used to it, mastery and dexterity reach a higher level. In my Japanese gourmet restaurant (Kaiseki at Château de la Gaude), where we prepare a lot of sashimi and other raw fish, the exceptional sharpness of Japanese knives is essential. They cut with surgical precision, and their handle and grip offer unequalled ease and fluidity of movement.

How do you maintain the sharpness and quality of your Japanese knives?

Sharpening is essential. My knives, and those of my entire team, are sharpened very regularly, generally once a week. We use two types of whetstone with different grits. For those with steel blades, I finish by polishing the blade with a small eraser to maintain a perfect finish.

Among the different styles of Japanese knives, do you have a preference? Why or why not?

My favorites are undeniably the Deba. Mine were tailor-made for the left-handed man in me. Their blade is ideally suited to lifting fish. For me, the Deba is more than just a knife, it's a real favorite.