Capon, a recent Christmas tradition

For the festive season, Gault&Millau has decided to delve into the origins of Christmas dishes. Today, the capon is in the spotlight!

Ingrid Boinet Published on 12/21/23 at 9:10 AM

Christmas dinner without a capon? Unthinkable! Yet this tradition is more recent than you might think. Food historian Loïc Bienassis proves the point with this historical review.

Poultry for Christmas

"It'simportant to know that we have few sources for Christmas meals before the19th century. In fact, in the 18th century, we know that in Versailles it was a meal like any other", explains Loïc Bienassis. We do know, however, that in some regions, the Christmas meal was divided into two parts: the "lean" meal (supper) before midnight mass, then the "fat"meal the next day, often consisting of poultry, particularly goose.

Later, turkey and capon were gradually preferred to goose for Christmas. Fat and tasty, capons promise to feed large tables. But above all, this poultry is expensive, an important criterion for Christmas celebrations. "We choose meats that cost more, that we wouldn't be able to afford every Sunday, in order to mark the occasion and treat ourselves," explains the historian .

So why is it that capon has remained a Christmas dish, while goose has not? "In the20th century, the Christmas meal became nationalized, while regional habits faded. Certain products that historically had no connection with Christmas became established," explains Loïc Bienassis. The goose, an overpriced poultry, has not resisted this change.

Three breeders where to find a Christmas capon

Au Chapon Bressan

Le Chapon Bressan is one of the best addresses in the region if you're looking for quality poultry. You'll find Bresse poultry (chicken, poularde, capon and turkey) raised in the wild. You'll besure of a fine dish for Christmas .

Rue du Stade, 01340 Montrevel-en-Bresse (Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes)
www.chaponbressan.fr

La Cour d' Armoise

Sixth-generation poultry farmer Pascal Cosnet guarantees free-range poultry from ancient breeds raised on over six hectares of grassland. Each bird is fed on the farm's own cereals and wild plants. To be discovered on the farm or at the Le Mans markets on Saturdays and Sundays, or at the farm.

Le Pâtis, 72250 Coulans-sur-Gée (Pays de la Loire)Tel: 02 43 88 84 27
www.sarthetourisme.com/producteur/la-cour-darmoise

La Ferme des Rochelles

Located near Rennes, Ferme des Rochelles offers a 10-hectare poultry farm. Raised in the open air, our poultry enjoy the benefits of nature (insects, herbs...) and natural, local produce. La Ferme offers direct sales of free-range poultry and free-range eggs, but its products can also be found at local markets and in the Les Fermiers de la Baie store in Saint Malo.